tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-73524204808691824642024-02-07T18:44:14.983-08:00Prototypical DesignThe projects, concepts, and thoughts of a qualified fungineer.Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.comBlogger57125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-17449190288359156542019-11-20T04:18:00.000-08:002019-11-20T04:21:29.718-08:00The “Brag Yak”: A rigid, rollable, fish measuring matHaving struggled for years with using traditional floppy vinyl “brag mats” to measure my fish while out kayaking, i started looking for a reasonable alternative. The goal was to buy something which could provide a solid, flat measuring surface, but which didn’t take up mountains of room when not in use. Nothing existed... until now.<br />
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<a name='more'></a>It was after landing this PB Saratoga, when i was in the middle of a windswept lake with only a 60cm measuring board, that i decided enough was enough, and that kayakers needed a measuring device which actually worked where you didn’t have a huge level surface.<br />
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The design is incredibly simple, and it’s produced from a single piece of 5mm corflute sheet. I get mine printed by a place which does realestate signs, then i whack on a layer of clear vinyl to protect the print.<br />
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Strategic cuts allow the sheet to be rolled into a tight triangular prism about the size of a water bottle, and when unrolled a longitudinal cut allows the sheet to form a stiffening “vee” which keeps the fish centred and provides stiffness throughout the 1m length. Borrowing from the iPad folding cover, tiny magnets keep the mat rolled up.<br />
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The vee is maintained by a piece of shock cord, which is pinched by a captive cord lock. To form the vee you pull the cord by the loop, and to flatten the vee you just squeeze the button. It’s dead simple, and quite sturdy, with the corflute handling being bent backwards with no noticeable structural effect.<br />
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Early efforts left something to be desired, but it only took a couple of prototypes to settle on the recognisable design which is now being tested by people all up and down the eastern seaboard of Australia!<br />
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I love the way this thing turned out, it has finally solved a problem I’ve been annoyed by for years, and i hope that now it exists no one else has to suffer in silence!<br />
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Tight lines!</div>
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Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-45517589414698189272019-11-20T03:33:00.000-08:002019-11-20T03:34:41.269-08:00How to make a proper Neo Geo MiniThe Neo Geo is one of my favourite consoles, stocked with games which pushed the limits of pixel art so far that they’ve stood the test of time. In their prime they were basically the Disney of pixels, and that expensive workflow is reflected in how far beyond the reach of the most modern indie studios their games still are in terms of animation.<br />
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The Neo Geo Mini however, is not the console to relieve those glory days. Shoddy emulation aside, the form factor i was after was not some chintzy tiny arcade cabinet, i just wanted a little black box and two replicas of the famous AES sticks. Being limited to using a gamepad was never going to cut it!<br />
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So with some ROMs loaded and running flawlessly on the SNES mini i already own and love (ROMs i had previously purchased several times over on PC, Wii, Switch...), it was time to get to work on the controllers.<br />
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A quick perusal of Aliexpress revealed a huge supply of brand new Neo Geo branded sticks left over from SNK’s ill-fated, half-baked Neo Geo X console. Though the layout is absolutely identical to the classic original, the components are significantly cheaper feeling... but the price is <i>very</i> compelling! A few dollars and many weeks later i had two brand new examples in my hot little hands.<br />
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The brains of these sticks would be sourced from the Wii Classic Controller Pro, as it’s basically what’s at the heart of the standard SNES mini controllers. The cheap knockoff CCP’s which plague the online markets are a perfect fit as we won’t be needing to touch the awful feeling sticks or buttons, and the solder points on these cheaper models are actually easier to work with than the official Nintendo stock! Wiimote extension cables (buy these over the identical “SNES mini” branded cables and save a bundle!) gives us several feet of room to play with.<br />
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The AES stick contains so much free space inside that the extra controller PCB has plenty of space for installation alongside the existing wiring. Double-sided foam tape will prevent it from rattling around. It might also be advisable to add a bit of weight (lead/rolls of quarters/etc.) if you want to give the stick some more heft. I’ve left mine light because we’re just playing casually on the mini, but i do tend to like my sticks heavy, and these cheapies are not.<br />
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Both devices are common-earth which makes things quicker, with the most difficult part of the wiring process being a game of tracing positive pins to their respective counterpart on the other board.<br />
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And there we go, a full complement of joystick directions, the four face buttons, and start/select. Pass the new cable out of the existing exit, with the old cable bundled up to add weight to the stick, and screw the bottom panel back on, and the stick is now complete and ready to murder mummies in Metal Slug X, playing it the way god intended.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dB711MaNZELfqCkNvKVOp0vv3cJ5Gk3AeqJ2mgb9TXT32_DorP8i15auQm_vh-ZKmKy6qjZ3nGI09jsPriqWfwL3agTNlpftFg2C0PPtuaBFtKCzUc4JHOjzxBUS5oR2SUs3KVhva-U/s1600/DSC_0462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4dB711MaNZELfqCkNvKVOp0vv3cJ5Gk3AeqJ2mgb9TXT32_DorP8i15auQm_vh-ZKmKy6qjZ3nGI09jsPriqWfwL3agTNlpftFg2C0PPtuaBFtKCzUc4JHOjzxBUS5oR2SUs3KVhva-U/s320/DSC_0462.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzFL1CZ8INemO0zY-RTZO184HJS_vMQflozquohg_VSAmxifzaoTL_NOjz1d3ZzyZjz13tEZUUwt8pk8FNt7pnvwNPyp9RxaB-x-KizYVYyGbEf6td7_5IZKREkpDD84IfHIgjeixC53M/s1600/DSC_0481.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1072" data-original-width="1600" height="214" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjzFL1CZ8INemO0zY-RTZO184HJS_vMQflozquohg_VSAmxifzaoTL_NOjz1d3ZzyZjz13tEZUUwt8pk8FNt7pnvwNPyp9RxaB-x-KizYVYyGbEf6td7_5IZKREkpDD84IfHIgjeixC53M/s320/DSC_0481.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Shopping on Aliexpress, the stick currently goes for about $45AUD, the CCP $5, and the extension cable $2, all with free shipping. If you can handle the generally longer delivery times it’s a very cheap way to get a decent at-home Neo Geo experience, and handily better than anything SNK can manage!<br />
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Now for a CPS/CPS2 controller...Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-82988957351435257872017-08-04T03:00:00.001-07:002017-08-04T03:00:50.375-07:00The Flat-Stick - Full build with the basic Pika caseOne of my earliest commissions is this Tekken-themed stick. The customer had a tight budget, but for the same price as the sub-par Venom stick he ended up with a full suite of Sanwa hardware, double-sided art, and a very solid little PC/PS3/PS4 (legacy) stick!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbaPByVcot0QLuq7STaPcUep-6mk87I4MeO-YLg2qlnB8i2TMFvLnf9pAFmhSJGTASyUBQFRNOHuWfLfD8ZfZbBeTmCCYEddwm9V4Ho3GpoW3kKqfF9k5GUathagB1DPq2EGcD3brBxac/s1600/20170715_202057.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbaPByVcot0QLuq7STaPcUep-6mk87I4MeO-YLg2qlnB8i2TMFvLnf9pAFmhSJGTASyUBQFRNOHuWfLfD8ZfZbBeTmCCYEddwm9V4Ho3GpoW3kKqfF9k5GUathagB1DPq2EGcD3brBxac/s320/20170715_202057.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>To add a little personalisation, i did throw in a top panel etching, normally $20 for this size.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gPWT5bzm7MKJ-BwwVOTj2Srj-nlAUedlzJhzkZPU6tnRcyKADhxVzhUFcPdWIm9RsVeH7VpAMT-dV_75Qn8UyHbWrUkwozJVaSOwv_ArVXmIFw7HtQEtWW7tV35vnZVFuth5sozOHR0/s1600/20170714_210721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9gPWT5bzm7MKJ-BwwVOTj2Srj-nlAUedlzJhzkZPU6tnRcyKADhxVzhUFcPdWIm9RsVeH7VpAMT-dV_75Qn8UyHbWrUkwozJVaSOwv_ArVXmIFw7HtQEtWW7tV35vnZVFuth5sozOHR0/s320/20170714_210721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The raw aluminium frames work well with the lighter colours he had chosen. The buttons are screw-in Sanwa OBSN's. They fit nicely into the Sega Player 2 button layout, but don't work for the traditional Vewlix. The case does support the narrower snap-in buttons, and there's always my favourite <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/07/the-flat-stick-laser-etched-button.html" target="_blank">Seimitsu screw-ins</a>.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKRXWCTjykdrIosU3DyGpN77J8s0H_Bv9C5PqDAZJCTaBAVvzH2y0Vy71vWZ9s69JLU3Dfkw_JQSFqcSaXvwZ4wMRcBRDMCW40nue8ghjBRvE1Xxj5NKbQDEaUSK90tqCKNz0KCJauXk/s1600/20170715_025753.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVKRXWCTjykdrIosU3DyGpN77J8s0H_Bv9C5PqDAZJCTaBAVvzH2y0Vy71vWZ9s69JLU3Dfkw_JQSFqcSaXvwZ4wMRcBRDMCW40nue8ghjBRvE1Xxj5NKbQDEaUSK90tqCKNz0KCJauXk/s320/20170715_025753.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Instead of going with the fancier, more expensive <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/07/the-flat-stick-neutrik-usb-adapter-vs.html" target="_blank">Neutrik NA-USB</a> connector between the case and interior, a simple "pass-under" was utilised. Because the cable stores away in the edge of the case, this has no practical detriment.<br />
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The cable was included with the zero-delay PCB which was being used for this build. It's a super cost-effective PCB, it works just fine on every PC game i've tried, and also carries across to most PS3 and PS4 titles under legacy mode.<br />
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Almost ironically however, it specifically does not work with the PS4 version of Tekken 7. I'm not sure why it acts so weirdly with that game in legacy mode, it's fine on the PC version!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSRJXoic18Yn_wVCxHXnuY7r1AKH-lnUZ1CXhc15CHqfDEbWbHXfNaySu1pWDSq0Yx3VkaqZLW5bumz1NLNKJDvr8-GJ5VLbdqIF5P6R8et3TskYyhAir8wfmQZ44t9WpzTb7N_hpbls/s1600/20170715_191428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHSRJXoic18Yn_wVCxHXnuY7r1AKH-lnUZ1CXhc15CHqfDEbWbHXfNaySu1pWDSq0Yx3VkaqZLW5bumz1NLNKJDvr8-GJ5VLbdqIF5P6R8et3TskYyhAir8wfmQZ44t9WpzTb7N_hpbls/s320/20170715_191428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And once assembled the result is still very neat!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoB3w8NgPadmZ1PN_Ud4AyjkVb6vIYs2hYu2RUrWjatCz_-1krb8PFPtlouDmI25vKpfiH95n6SfmXJI5exAosOwzrwIjh1BJWbqBnAxMRRELv26N2l9TP2llVcK0EtqIeOGqXozfd78/s1600/20170715_191212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDoB3w8NgPadmZ1PN_Ud4AyjkVb6vIYs2hYu2RUrWjatCz_-1krb8PFPtlouDmI25vKpfiH95n6SfmXJI5exAosOwzrwIjh1BJWbqBnAxMRRELv26N2l9TP2llVcK0EtqIeOGqXozfd78/s320/20170715_191212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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All of the buttons mounted, and the Sanwa JLF installed. The default recesss of the joystick fits all common Sanwa and Seimitsu sticks, but alterations can be made to accommodate the more niche Korean or American models.</div>
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This full setup of buttons, stick, and PCB with wiring costs about $80, depending on the exchange rate. For proper, native, across-the-board PS4 support, the step up to the venerable Brook fighting board is an additional $50.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYdAcA1YH5TKg-yUH8CtAgnWRecfLn6CKEvhC4o6KRjts0geJBT45GVAzKNEPw9WnMolSyfKXiUHRRVcbDnR_PmFehOI6ybYSk1nlPkRCLzobwE1_T5krjkYmboy7hQcJ88xqwwU6TOw/s1600/20170715_210209.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVYdAcA1YH5TKg-yUH8CtAgnWRecfLn6CKEvhC4o6KRjts0geJBT45GVAzKNEPw9WnMolSyfKXiUHRRVcbDnR_PmFehOI6ybYSk1nlPkRCLzobwE1_T5krjkYmboy7hQcJ88xqwwU6TOw/s320/20170715_210209.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A side view showing the optional smoke acrylic cladding fitted to the side panels. The system buttons are recessed to prevent accidental touches, but are still easily accessible by rolling your hand over the frame.<br />
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The acrylic was meant to be a full set, but there was a problem with my prototype measurements for the bottom panel, so i threw this in as a freebie. I like the contrast with the exposed joints, it reminds me of old isometric games like "snake rattle'n'roll".<br />
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A full acrylic set, which actually covers the corners and bottom panel, is $35 for this size, and is available in a bajillion colour and material finishes.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QJ_yONkkmYa4dz7SckH6HMad4PO3AYmYDwojDq98rUJCtvFci1zmYnI-I40xK6fdItl_POeObXwxXh5-SHExcK-v59H_uHhMRQmztMAZY46UUKTFrgHHFDIzYj6iXQOeKNGLnQVCwo4/s1600/20170715_202250.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9QJ_yONkkmYa4dz7SckH6HMad4PO3AYmYDwojDq98rUJCtvFci1zmYnI-I40xK6fdItl_POeObXwxXh5-SHExcK-v59H_uHhMRQmztMAZY46UUKTFrgHHFDIzYj6iXQOeKNGLnQVCwo4/s320/20170715_202250.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I had some Kodak photo-prints done up for both the top and bottom panels. They're $5 a pop in this size, and they look fantastic, much better than i can do at home!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zIeQVloujNoXHWfhA4w-b5Pix9fyyIKPlxIFzt5BkYVTdn-UE0g8wIKcSfRbeAtrKj09Ajy7Dmfqn1-6pI4YdH1rkzl1Anom6qp917Pu9e8qqqoq80wMNvzXDHykvp58IgOTZ8dhbxA/s1600/20170715_202210.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5zIeQVloujNoXHWfhA4w-b5Pix9fyyIKPlxIFzt5BkYVTdn-UE0g8wIKcSfRbeAtrKj09Ajy7Dmfqn1-6pI4YdH1rkzl1Anom6qp917Pu9e8qqqoq80wMNvzXDHykvp58IgOTZ8dhbxA/s320/20170715_202210.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So the breakdown for this stick:<br />
<ul>
<li>Basic "Pika" case (300x210mm) - $110</li>
<li>2x Photo Prints - $10</li>
<li>Internal Hardware - $80</li>
</ul>
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And of course i did throw in a couple of extras:</div>
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<ul>
<li>Top panel etching - $20</li>
<li>Acrylic cladding - $35</li>
</ul>
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With its higher-quality components, sturdier build quality, and aluminium and glass touch points, it comes up pretty favourably against the Chinese-built Venom stick you can find at JB HiFi for the same price:</div>
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<a href="https://www.convicore.com/s/cc_images/cache_21220522.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="652" data-original-width="800" height="260" src="https://www.convicore.com/s/cc_images/cache_21220522.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-3218238930194743082017-07-21T06:14:00.002-07:002017-07-21T06:14:31.471-07:00The Flat-Stick - Assembling the Sanwa JLF JoystickWhen i ship a fully-built stick, i tend to take the shaft out of the stick to protect it in transit. It only takes a couple of minutes to reassemble with no tools required, and it's far less work than the alternative of installing the entire unit.<br />
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These are the parts required to put it together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFl6FetHMEkqasLosjU5119vizzYXz2rrB8DxRuFadpXJCV2Mh64ejco98tBaKChQCtWxidfM_tEd4XTofgvrEFOJlfSue7ry0IyQenyJffqSzC0gunlG-wzhpOJ9FEOyawy3NOGWN4TY/s1600/20170719_172822.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFl6FetHMEkqasLosjU5119vizzYXz2rrB8DxRuFadpXJCV2Mh64ejco98tBaKChQCtWxidfM_tEd4XTofgvrEFOJlfSue7ry0IyQenyJffqSzC0gunlG-wzhpOJ9FEOyawy3NOGWN4TY/s320/20170719_172822.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a> Take the two black pieces with the spring in the middle, and drop them into the hole through the restrictor plate, with the wider and flatter plastic piece towards the bottom.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFsSQNBMUqf-OMfoJTHDqd7If2POzvR2_b4dxvGepVA9PvoQkAWE719oYLYbZFNyOu7G7PZAxmbOZ658jIiuWgLLFQSMQXA1NQMbh56OX0OksturkmjQunY6myNOz2THREgVvJ0KqC7BM/s1600/20170719_173001.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFsSQNBMUqf-OMfoJTHDqd7If2POzvR2_b4dxvGepVA9PvoQkAWE719oYLYbZFNyOu7G7PZAxmbOZ658jIiuWgLLFQSMQXA1NQMbh56OX0OksturkmjQunY6myNOz2THREgVvJ0KqC7BM/s320/20170719_173001.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once that's all down it should look like this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg791nm80RsebR_L4GeMxBSUDcWHRuMs3XrefpTUfGj-b_v0_FQ9NCRsJ_4D0fqtTSmzvsSU8Szcpw4NZE6K9BehUm5T8ZyoJPv0xbLadkd0nUr9BVGh7bdMfrGEN5RuKbz7C8yYKfz17c/s1600/20170719_173041.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg791nm80RsebR_L4GeMxBSUDcWHRuMs3XrefpTUfGj-b_v0_FQ9NCRsJ_4D0fqtTSmzvsSU8Szcpw4NZE6K9BehUm5T8ZyoJPv0xbLadkd0nUr9BVGh7bdMfrGEN5RuKbz7C8yYKfz17c/s320/20170719_173041.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next, while holding the black pieces in place, push the shaft with the white piece on it through from the top side.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0w3yXBuizJbPnxssV1jwZKbmPSXPoeKIbVvsrLIMicjt9AwyHQhUY7IDD5hfnBSSp64MwBKDeRTrtJZqBaWs_0XNlpnjnBmERn6OdBJCk_7R0Kexh3kIKCgx6792FrrOVufWqv7WyR4/s1600/20170719_173054.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhU0w3yXBuizJbPnxssV1jwZKbmPSXPoeKIbVvsrLIMicjt9AwyHQhUY7IDD5hfnBSSp64MwBKDeRTrtJZqBaWs_0XNlpnjnBmERn6OdBJCk_7R0Kexh3kIKCgx6792FrrOVufWqv7WyR4/s320/20170719_173054.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Flip it back over, and you'll have this.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8TcWJVwe-0neQRdeDfE3NbP1E2MVsEkvXRHPzb4MQfbOZR7zgrIQDzd0bEU1w4J0j1u3m_6WhrhGj0KLpLavtqHGs44Y780bCcFxPYY5LJFKGjTknsPgqfD_86sw-BNPJuGF0nd7ybDw/s1600/20170719_173107.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8TcWJVwe-0neQRdeDfE3NbP1E2MVsEkvXRHPzb4MQfbOZR7zgrIQDzd0bEU1w4J0j1u3m_6WhrhGj0KLpLavtqHGs44Y780bCcFxPYY5LJFKGjTknsPgqfD_86sw-BNPJuGF0nd7ybDw/s320/20170719_173107.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Compress the spring by pushing down the plastic piece, until you've exposed the groove near the top.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRpGEXEYk5mvzvx4K3z3SBi_EJq_qYt_bjrQG663c1gT3SLSeVF9bVl5hLs1pW7Hn6NlynBcToddaZHQfoXrLcA9j4QsCpg0e9tRvTtAsArUT5ZP3SGvtzfx75jaFFBPtFmmsj4Czkjs/s1600/20170719_173129.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXRpGEXEYk5mvzvx4K3z3SBi_EJq_qYt_bjrQG663c1gT3SLSeVF9bVl5hLs1pW7Hn6NlynBcToddaZHQfoXrLcA9j4QsCpg0e9tRvTtAsArUT5ZP3SGvtzfx75jaFFBPtFmmsj4Czkjs/s320/20170719_173129.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now with the other hand push the e-clip into place. Once it's on gently you can stop worrying about keeping the spring compressed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBLwkE6UKE8-4Ay03It2LjL7hhBJiSaLjyCeYuRadH1hf3bP2SphenkY0eFqixkl5uN20_BJ8yawW67ymZ2t96qGBClgqKN_GiWxq3Lwz_-H_kBIQsxj9DjTGME4CHTZz-uZBFaE_cj0/s1600/20170719_173140.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglBLwkE6UKE8-4Ay03It2LjL7hhBJiSaLjyCeYuRadH1hf3bP2SphenkY0eFqixkl5uN20_BJ8yawW67ymZ2t96qGBClgqKN_GiWxq3Lwz_-H_kBIQsxj9DjTGME4CHTZz-uZBFaE_cj0/s320/20170719_173140.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now give it a really good push to get it clipped on! If you want to save your fingers, you can use a pair of pliers, or the inside face of a teaspoon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4P5GWBCfF4yi2fAMi5l3qoHS9TF8LPSjN6Qxuw9v1EQ5IfVG00O39LjQJLKVDGgesTJOIzjSDECUhp0nlId_3JXKrb47PhNRtF8u4z1vqYN77A1mYSw8R5_4QVlvvJ9BLQQIUF-W7_Ek/s1600/20170719_173150.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh4P5GWBCfF4yi2fAMi5l3qoHS9TF8LPSjN6Qxuw9v1EQ5IfVG00O39LjQJLKVDGgesTJOIzjSDECUhp0nlId_3JXKrb47PhNRtF8u4z1vqYN77A1mYSw8R5_4QVlvvJ9BLQQIUF-W7_Ek/s320/20170719_173150.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now you can flip it over, drop on the dust washer, and screw on the ball top! It's ready to go!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-59060378047519447042017-07-20T05:51:00.001-07:002017-07-20T05:51:06.966-07:00The Flat-Stick - Neutrik USB adapter vs. "Pass-under"There are two ways to handle the USB cable for the Flat-Stick; either hardwired end-to-end and passed under the frame, or a two-piece solution which connects at a Neutrik connector.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1KwyLHgokGO9rHtud36EcUF-78CSgJuNhXR7gqNNDtkAZ1-ysBTnBwlKKI2vvL_QyDls4JkSuj49FgvVyg3pcNvxwmIY5bHueRtS_2cmm5vrgB9B5iwQFSQenTcg6BdeyiquF8zeE8w/s1600/20170715_192948.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhp1KwyLHgokGO9rHtud36EcUF-78CSgJuNhXR7gqNNDtkAZ1-ysBTnBwlKKI2vvL_QyDls4JkSuj49FgvVyg3pcNvxwmIY5bHueRtS_2cmm5vrgB9B5iwQFSQenTcg6BdeyiquF8zeE8w/s320/20170715_192948.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The "pass-under" is the most economical, and works similarly to the cables found on sticks like the Hori RAP series. The cable is always attached to the case, but it stores within the overhangs.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkcuoLFgBdOc8LacI4mFc-BrIprmQC8r4tk2adD1jMMUpLfwRXWmoNV3PZpGrLh3S5hVE1Cu7CtZfRkRdM7phyCG1a8zlig9A1u-ZUdISn-rI9yp0DmWDAGeYhVEFoVCdTyWJx4ujB40/s1600/20170715_191212.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLkcuoLFgBdOc8LacI4mFc-BrIprmQC8r4tk2adD1jMMUpLfwRXWmoNV3PZpGrLh3S5hVE1Cu7CtZfRkRdM7phyCG1a8zlig9A1u-ZUdISn-rI9yp0DmWDAGeYhVEFoVCdTyWJx4ujB40/s320/20170715_191212.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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When the case is assembled you just see a neat exit like this. But the cable IS fully removable, as when the bottom panel is removed the whole thing can just lift out. This makes cable replacement a cinch should anything happen to it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-vTQJjX8nC76HFXMjwtfyTtWaNS6VPBgJahZipZFzSgyY5FgKeMpw57mXM_0JPU4uLGYppg0gg5h47GgVujQBcoKXO9SKaJGfHMaS0IF6xMlZtvjYDeCxNKSGHnoiZmqa6zMBb3glzfw/s1600/20170715_191428.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh-vTQJjX8nC76HFXMjwtfyTtWaNS6VPBgJahZipZFzSgyY5FgKeMpw57mXM_0JPU4uLGYppg0gg5h47GgVujQBcoKXO9SKaJGfHMaS0IF6xMlZtvjYDeCxNKSGHnoiZmqa6zMBb3glzfw/s320/20170715_191428.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Neutrik USB passthrough is an incredibly popular connector type. It allows the cable to be entirely disconnected from the case, which makes replacement simple, and provides additional security against tripping over the cable by giving the cable a second "break point". This is most similar to the Madcatz sticks, with a resilient detachable setup.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJUVS2cxVf52lJQ17AcLDnbW4LweBfdxnpa_mvWlc9KbQIllr3eWsSw_-CiTqQ0yVMC9BHbpmvFZ022H4QakK4KkCVD7V7rKLl0r408fS1yaKhNKhj5zau3KyTM7m177Jzes84V_0LKI/s1600/20170715_191937.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCJUVS2cxVf52lJQ17AcLDnbW4LweBfdxnpa_mvWlc9KbQIllr3eWsSw_-CiTqQ0yVMC9BHbpmvFZ022H4QakK4KkCVD7V7rKLl0r408fS1yaKhNKhj5zau3KyTM7m177Jzes84V_0LKI/s320/20170715_191937.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It can be mounted externally, either straight onto the case as here, or with an additional moulded rubber seat under it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQbAyXx2ijOoavdNFmAkROIRFsb2AHKM9plxsy7SCI67qaxRwUH8Sh1oeRGp81l7m-EjnvGn2GCqKc3QcBvB37_tZiz4Nxr96_-t9DBC7LS2Lypcp6nFajYXfk9mWFGmw-i_Q3QRZDEU/s1600/20170715_193246.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPQbAyXx2ijOoavdNFmAkROIRFsb2AHKM9plxsy7SCI67qaxRwUH8Sh1oeRGp81l7m-EjnvGn2GCqKc3QcBvB37_tZiz4Nxr96_-t9DBC7LS2Lypcp6nFajYXfk9mWFGmw-i_Q3QRZDEU/s320/20170715_193246.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It can also be mounted internally, which gives a flush look as per the top image in this article. Finish it off with acrylic cladding and the countersunk screw heads can be completely hidden.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49-CZSa3Rq9xHHIfSnx7VuzSuPp_1nCgJ0Ka8rGdwd24ta0A1qvuSR_NgflggmXoodKP9iwhxhW9y7z7Y-FEWDAVa3zwj9hxPjWmZXDQQNknE1b9E8-1UeOfHVSKpZ-G8QRN3naFTapA/s1600/20170715_192009.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj49-CZSa3Rq9xHHIfSnx7VuzSuPp_1nCgJ0Ka8rGdwd24ta0A1qvuSR_NgflggmXoodKP9iwhxhW9y7z7Y-FEWDAVa3zwj9hxPjWmZXDQQNknE1b9E8-1UeOfHVSKpZ-G8QRN3naFTapA/s320/20170715_192009.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The internal side has another female USB socket, and you simply run a very short cable from there to your PCB.<br />
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A Neutrik NAUSB connector typically costs around $10, and comes in silver or black. For extra cable connection security, or improved legacy console compatibility, an RJ45 version is also available.<br />
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-83047010987337794222017-07-14T15:47:00.000-07:002017-07-14T15:47:54.376-07:00The Flat-Stick - Laser-etched button insertsI was popping some buttons apart recently and noticed that the Seimitsu PS-14-K has an enormous internal capacity, enough to possibly fit a small circle of plywood inside!<br />
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So with the latest run of laser-cut parts, i threw in some button inserts.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobEeRtATwawqj_5R2CPgTv9ZFa0Jor8wM7TTMQS-3NTc9GdBQFh9xRkLbAmkxnBVCQlPr-Gz5otZPAfilvLNrR5uM530Tno8cUfQexBQ8Dz-NbQHqE2I9m_UbCjjIdq5IG-pCfeKMbRk/s1600/20170714_190224.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhobEeRtATwawqj_5R2CPgTv9ZFa0Jor8wM7TTMQS-3NTc9GdBQFh9xRkLbAmkxnBVCQlPr-Gz5otZPAfilvLNrR5uM530Tno8cUfQexBQ8Dz-NbQHqE2I9m_UbCjjIdq5IG-pCfeKMbRk/s320/20170714_190224.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now these are a great, cheap way to jazz up a stick! Because i'm already cutting button holes in the top sheet, it only costs another $5 to run the laser a little longer and punch some of these out.</div>
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And because it comes from the same piece of timber and is in alignment, the grain flows perfectly across the case to the buttons. It's a very neat touch.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVEyudJrhaaoBhRXJmnMXLaMLZZeJet-PTiRyBtHXXA4ZgNZ31NvUk44eog2pENSHnO4mxi3Z9nEQB7hF9XBw2xHE_CbgUqitBJOy-2Nn12cr1EMBJ6iPnj47aAaLvx63JYkno7mUKbA/s1600/20170714_185348.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEglVEyudJrhaaoBhRXJmnMXLaMLZZeJet-PTiRyBtHXXA4ZgNZ31NvUk44eog2pENSHnO4mxi3Z9nEQB7hF9XBw2xHE_CbgUqitBJOy-2Nn12cr1EMBJ6iPnj47aAaLvx63JYkno7mUKbA/s320/20170714_185348.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I demoed a set of PS4 buttons at the top there, and the bottom lot is for a Wii U/Switch stick. It's possible to do Xbox, MKX, SFV, or even continue an art etching of the top panel through the buttons!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHdMPZ_3B2oIDsI0RhKa0VXzq940a12SOfOUm6-ru8Jb3iUzsenIEU7MOJhj3aYmJVANcxg33CSzwCxwm3D0wVpgM-DIVLgnoMxiSOESSEkYh-dmI7Mm-J87n2UoC9uJK0hNT5PguIcw/s1600/20170714_185414.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwHdMPZ_3B2oIDsI0RhKa0VXzq940a12SOfOUm6-ru8Jb3iUzsenIEU7MOJhj3aYmJVANcxg33CSzwCxwm3D0wVpgM-DIVLgnoMxiSOESSEkYh-dmI7Mm-J87n2UoC9uJK0hNT5PguIcw/s320/20170714_185414.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The PS-14-K is the only button these work for so far. Once you pop the white insert out you can replace it with a plywood piece, and it fits perfectly back together.<br />
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To do a similar piece for a Sanwa stick would require the use of very thin wood, which would mean an additional piece of stock would have to be cut. That's probably going to be unreasonably expensive and wasteful unless i do several lots at once. I'll have to check it out.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxFCheSr17icaInq1EaR0qlbXSIiFIAsbT0JZQMJJzv5YMF2rOTmIC4jeYpwryaNKuHF7qudG5CTwf20-x3_3AI4XnIpUw0BQH6VEVa0SdyN0QWvZ-hVmpdhS10nrryYuQHAfSzRHDlw/s1600/20170714_185534.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxFCheSr17icaInq1EaR0qlbXSIiFIAsbT0JZQMJJzv5YMF2rOTmIC4jeYpwryaNKuHF7qudG5CTwf20-x3_3AI4XnIpUw0BQH6VEVa0SdyN0QWvZ-hVmpdhS10nrryYuQHAfSzRHDlw/s320/20170714_185534.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And that's a completed button!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-81222428784578426132017-07-14T08:39:00.000-07:002017-07-14T15:47:40.180-07:00The Flat-Stick - Etchings and AcrylicsA new lot just came back from the laser cutter today, and on top of a couple of regular cases came a slew of experimental bits and bobs!<br />
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Here's a commission for a guy in Perth:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfl82_hfBxR8gOzlNVlvgk8pBipRmvAnRbblcXtxGrLHP27o26pwV71V0aXCSPGah8Ltk5ddwLkVYJfDmkbZwnqv2fi5WVfNHnr7R2mcWY_b6_coCcymJENxHd5TV-4Mosw66aKeU3_4/s1600/20170714_223003.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUfl82_hfBxR8gOzlNVlvgk8pBipRmvAnRbblcXtxGrLHP27o26pwV71V0aXCSPGah8Ltk5ddwLkVYJfDmkbZwnqv2fi5WVfNHnr7R2mcWY_b6_coCcymJENxHd5TV-4Mosw66aKeU3_4/s320/20170714_223003.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This uses a combination of materials and methods to build a really high-contrast image with serious depth.</div>
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The bottom layer is the top sheet of the case, bamboo plywood, directly etched with a forest of swords.</div>
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On top of that is a combination of smoke grey acrylic and gloss black acrylic, fitted together like a puzzle. The black gloss piece is also etched to create the shading on the character, which has a matte white finish.</div>
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And the uppermost layer is a clear acrylic to give everything a smooth feel.</div>
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I'm not going to lie, this is a very expensive way to go! The plywood etching is $25, and the smoke and black layer is $50.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_E9tXLfl-FaMfynzZTu0Iy-vbPznrRTJfM3ECK7YhHtrd-6fYSwLYrvpXWsJS0iCg6NRTC-xsbDFacnRDshBTh0urJ65kIDFOLqIK49DD1SCdELXwnHn8sO2mG4u9P2QxzJvEzNaHDzk/s1600/20170714_222947.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_E9tXLfl-FaMfynzZTu0Iy-vbPznrRTJfM3ECK7YhHtrd-6fYSwLYrvpXWsJS0iCg6NRTC-xsbDFacnRDshBTh0urJ65kIDFOLqIK49DD1SCdELXwnHn8sO2mG4u9P2QxzJvEzNaHDzk/s320/20170714_222947.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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But the results are amazing. The blacks are superbly inky, the highlights are soft like moonlight, and the edges of the materials really pop. This will never be confused for something as lowly as an art print!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpkQ_ZgwmCCmUH1wI_EoCAvvL7qiyiVLtyY-e8qqs8DCHzBaDsQ9P-h2gx9aCe7q_hfCx9TtCifQKmIVaaTbv6Ijw-CUnN7O2ge8ocQoqylhTJELNPIu9e3WVZ8EH9w0L6zLsUHMmNB4/s1600/20170714_205437.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNpkQ_ZgwmCCmUH1wI_EoCAvvL7qiyiVLtyY-e8qqs8DCHzBaDsQ9P-h2gx9aCe7q_hfCx9TtCifQKmIVaaTbv6Ijw-CUnN7O2ge8ocQoqylhTJELNPIu9e3WVZ8EH9w0L6zLsUHMmNB4/s320/20170714_205437.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A detail look at the plywood etching. The swords are raster-etched, which is where the laser moves like a printer head and burns the wood pixel by pixel. You get a softer, lighter look from raster.<br />
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The blood moon is vector etched, which is where the laser tracks a line. This results in a deeper, darker outline which is razor sharp.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SKtb5zHg6dbabDoAIwjZqjUI18CSNT3Wur6nWd4DZ_OOMQW_A1ecF4dTeWjPLfRTMpbE73HEV3bPr65YKb9XJgl6XuSzIjNxyjk17viKAHuaC9ztobupmtZhfZtRtaLHYxvqXLhkoOE/s1600/20170714_205504.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5SKtb5zHg6dbabDoAIwjZqjUI18CSNT3Wur6nWd4DZ_OOMQW_A1ecF4dTeWjPLfRTMpbE73HEV3bPr65YKb9XJgl6XuSzIjNxyjk17viKAHuaC9ztobupmtZhfZtRtaLHYxvqXLhkoOE/s320/20170714_205504.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A close-up of the raster etched swords. You can really feel the depth of the etching, and it really plays well with the grain of the wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5d9cxlkoNbeAXlMSbwzHDT-6tnnz_Mnyc7DIyUuqXbFEZcmoVs_4wGyLhLlha85wZWAbDQWGUf2GPP1_yCAvw_F88hqN1cD963P4eykAxGn46pGJ2TU7q0rU3ff8RbgJT_mkdUuKyfUE/s1600/20170714_210721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi5d9cxlkoNbeAXlMSbwzHDT-6tnnz_Mnyc7DIyUuqXbFEZcmoVs_4wGyLhLlha85wZWAbDQWGUf2GPP1_yCAvw_F88hqN1cD963P4eykAxGn46pGJ2TU7q0rU3ff8RbgJT_mkdUuKyfUE/s320/20170714_210721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Another quick piece done for a customer. The text is raster etched, the lines are all vectors. It's just something simple to keep hidden under an art layer, like a cheeky tattoo. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpbKMY1GTSRHeQeXqdP5WiIs4uqb9J_qp8S-mKrTvIyEJHNNVQI9lVzVwSKjgH7A7GXqVcGXWUZXwa6sZSGPULYy_aYhq_T4WTknlqJk2plgLlzu6NyxCCMnIgQZnNrM8vFTpZQDEafY/s1600/20170714_215639.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiOpbKMY1GTSRHeQeXqdP5WiIs4uqb9J_qp8S-mKrTvIyEJHNNVQI9lVzVwSKjgH7A7GXqVcGXWUZXwa6sZSGPULYy_aYhq_T4WTknlqJk2plgLlzu6NyxCCMnIgQZnNrM8vFTpZQDEafY/s320/20170714_215639.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is my alternative to painting for a gloss finish, it's a full cladding kit made of acrylic! It costs $40, and delivers a perfectly smooth mirror finish which is resilient. Attaining the same level of finish from paint would be horrendously time consuming, less durable, and probably more expensive.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6iCkKC2hgKrqkzRAVr0wpEdBWy1o0M4DPmANvN15-6zabj_PDyWjbZykD2yNnlreABglivPYmQACZoQJ5k7CvLMR6varDz23GeW2VDijek2bEvP_Fk3p6UNY2T5zILtWXMAHCD3Y2ok/s1600/20170714_223347.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhF6iCkKC2hgKrqkzRAVr0wpEdBWy1o0M4DPmANvN15-6zabj_PDyWjbZykD2yNnlreABglivPYmQACZoQJ5k7CvLMR6varDz23GeW2VDijek2bEvP_Fk3p6UNY2T5zILtWXMAHCD3Y2ok/s320/20170714_223347.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the full kit, four sides and the bottom piece. Doing the underside of the top plate is possible, but massively costly as i'd have to double the stock sheet size for very little gain.</div>
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I have a LOT of colour options available for this stuff; solids, translucents, mirror finishes, and even frosted. Everything can also be etched, if you want to add a little flair to the mid-section of the case.</div>
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I'll have more examples of that kind of thing soon, along with a material/colour sample set.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzl2TGLXqDaN2FM4vVe0FORLnKPMMJkIyAGIJsLp2V9f86sqYUTbjq-YtNI6QarCPpIbYAEr7a3AfPrcZDNr3LIIbQAyXhlXLUXH4i8-BQos64OXoF8X3j07KM3BVcpZRtISLqnH98KqI/s1600/20170714_220340.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzl2TGLXqDaN2FM4vVe0FORLnKPMMJkIyAGIJsLp2V9f86sqYUTbjq-YtNI6QarCPpIbYAEr7a3AfPrcZDNr3LIIbQAyXhlXLUXH4i8-BQos64OXoF8X3j07KM3BVcpZRtISLqnH98KqI/s320/20170714_220340.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Shiny shiny!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhveYSCggwXW6jcGddk44UCXkj33Q4iXmg8epzhxv7vML6ki17BuUhj2XxpqOl4ijTiO8QH0wwoZ4I5Kv7TOa1Q4pnyaltraPX3C2hBI3X38G6WOOjgLN-D8FYuQFDQ4MOmek0uUwFKrPU/s1600/20170714_223508.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhveYSCggwXW6jcGddk44UCXkj33Q4iXmg8epzhxv7vML6ki17BuUhj2XxpqOl4ijTiO8QH0wwoZ4I5Kv7TOa1Q4pnyaltraPX3C2hBI3X38G6WOOjgLN-D8FYuQFDQ4MOmek0uUwFKrPU/s320/20170714_223508.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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One of my favourite looks is to use a translucent smoke colour. It's coming across a little purple here, but that's due to my office lighting.<br />
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The interesting thing here is that you still get the visual texture of the wood grain coming through. It looks pretty smexy, especially if you're going for understated elegance. With the right mix of materials one of these arcade sticks could definitely hold its own against modern danish furniture design! ;)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunIntVSiFem7pgQix8Qv6Cza1FxP3QB2zI0BZn1xLHcr3TTcAe2mkGmJUSAIneX4aZV_rtGQcPkFzPd5aqW7_KX7fkTPrkpl4b_-HAAsSh5dkjjAB_fMEk62CXR7LWpsOV_Nne9ECbxY/s1600/20170714_223538.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgunIntVSiFem7pgQix8Qv6Cza1FxP3QB2zI0BZn1xLHcr3TTcAe2mkGmJUSAIneX4aZV_rtGQcPkFzPd5aqW7_KX7fkTPrkpl4b_-HAAsSh5dkjjAB_fMEk62CXR7LWpsOV_Nne9ECbxY/s320/20170714_223538.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a close-up of the grain coming through. You could combine painting the wood with a translucent acrylic to get some neat visual effects. A very thin white coat would make the grain pop and brighten up the acrylic a treat.</div>
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I'll definitely get some examples of that up soon!</div>
Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-60287949646273100942017-06-27T05:23:00.004-07:002017-06-27T05:23:35.233-07:00The Flat-Stick - Painting, and introducing the "Bigly" 400x300 stick<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Bamboo plywood has many redeeming qualities; It's cheap, strong, looks good, and cuts really well. But it's literally impossible to sand, so painting it can be tricky.</div>
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If you just blow a bit of paint over the untouched wood you get quite visible grain. This can be used to good effect, and in flat black it tends to look like burnt wood. It helps that the pieces are all cut with respect to the visible grain, with the top panels having vertical grain and the side pieces horizontal.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMHzNuPgyhiiMJ9q9w-nNI2zUwXkDmb3d1FQR3l2eOboyypTIbC2b6DVeW1VQ9f_QnOeT5mRpv0TQB2UAyYcuK4Z72F15Ixi5BzQcTy2e5Um5N9IuMAwSibws-bSUlgIUWjYbgovw5EY/s1600/20170624_114838.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgeMHzNuPgyhiiMJ9q9w-nNI2zUwXkDmb3d1FQR3l2eOboyypTIbC2b6DVeW1VQ9f_QnOeT5mRpv0TQB2UAyYcuK4Z72F15Ixi5BzQcTy2e5Um5N9IuMAwSibws-bSUlgIUWjYbgovw5EY/s320/20170624_114838.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Alternatively, if you leave the protective paper on and paint over that, you can hide the grain completely, and end up with a lightly speckled satin finish. To get a full gloss finish, the easiest way by far is to just clad the raw wood with acrylic. It comes in a vast range of colours and styles, and i'll touch on that subject soon.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kzYcDTI8pHi5Vi_RL6wdYixJVAuZphfiOV54_8WsNu_19RUarHdq3zV2bJFP49PibxTZmP65xc9AVjSLLMLwJOCEMpT4uRnVkWMXrXOt9OsB7HAI2h_qDTAQ-GP23JneQ8aPyWH2h60/s1600/20170624_114916.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3kzYcDTI8pHi5Vi_RL6wdYixJVAuZphfiOV54_8WsNu_19RUarHdq3zV2bJFP49PibxTZmP65xc9AVjSLLMLwJOCEMpT4uRnVkWMXrXOt9OsB7HAI2h_qDTAQ-GP23JneQ8aPyWH2h60/s320/20170624_114916.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The paint effects available in a range of colours, Satin vs grain. I actually like the silver more here than i ever have on other projects.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaAalk7h0ilbTtu0DXGwQE1qsc3z3KtmDAfN15sdTWPRAVte2XBnXs2keA6VGe2G12eeplMvxMYi36W5GHrPobonbdE4unqoW5xTBAjn5D7ir3BRYeuADmMkVj4142m8HJnyjFTWgvfs/s1600/20170624_114721.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiFaAalk7h0ilbTtu0DXGwQE1qsc3z3KtmDAfN15sdTWPRAVte2XBnXs2keA6VGe2G12eeplMvxMYi36W5GHrPobonbdE4unqoW5xTBAjn5D7ir3BRYeuADmMkVj4142m8HJnyjFTWgvfs/s320/20170624_114721.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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So here's the "Bigly", the larger A3-sized version of the case, with a couple of light coats of satin black. It looks like the bottom of a fire pit, i love it!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgax3LwKtsp-npKISDBKZ6BLiTEwNbMetiIBtFrmyLH7sWvTOLOfUwXmhhwOAGyf-B5rFOR6Xvpg2Ar9JH-uxsZOLrPWIM9jWpsNI4bPYLoTricFNHqBl5xAnNqg9nPiTMowPafpSffd18/s1600/20170624_135725.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgax3LwKtsp-npKISDBKZ6BLiTEwNbMetiIBtFrmyLH7sWvTOLOfUwXmhhwOAGyf-B5rFOR6Xvpg2Ar9JH-uxsZOLrPWIM9jWpsNI4bPYLoTricFNHqBl5xAnNqg9nPiTMowPafpSffd18/s320/20170624_135725.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And with the case assembled. I like to leave the other surfaces clear, it creates a nice two-tone effect, and the black paint with black frames helps to "disappear" the border between metal and wood.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc7jGyajIsC_UwgSKyTsucgZYISKdYH9rC0T6W2oAaDiftQq9yVV7wdwfvNUOVqojhBcynRD9q6cBGtY4WzzpLvtS1qbrh_M7PkBDAXcS67pino75Xl9UTXOXOm1Sc2xiGNR-QTdbpnM/s1600/20170624_141018.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrc7jGyajIsC_UwgSKyTsucgZYISKdYH9rC0T6W2oAaDiftQq9yVV7wdwfvNUOVqojhBcynRD9q6cBGtY4WzzpLvtS1qbrh_M7PkBDAXcS67pino75Xl9UTXOXOm1Sc2xiGNR-QTdbpnM/s320/20170624_141018.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The fully constructed case. The inset walls combine with the dark aesthetic to create an architectural "floating" look. It's my favourite look for the stick, industrial but light, like a timber-clad monolith.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONqHEi4aqXyKTFdcB7CYuUTCTa7bb7FDGKT1vOQafAX9bD4iRAhYcMHBDmn0-fJH_kc8pWUqexkpNVyoKSghmpLyIBf1vKQAZ_-jFgwJx0_tLJt9FbE3RQo49kNB9EZrykPP_BH2nPyg/s1600/20170624_140530.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhONqHEi4aqXyKTFdcB7CYuUTCTa7bb7FDGKT1vOQafAX9bD4iRAhYcMHBDmn0-fJH_kc8pWUqexkpNVyoKSghmpLyIBf1vKQAZ_-jFgwJx0_tLJt9FbE3RQo49kNB9EZrykPP_BH2nPyg/s320/20170624_140530.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGtbKzpPYh1F8D7AUZ-c19GZJXtLRVQ3tBjCfqmXD-deDey8LpZB84U7-t_Kg43njdZjkB344FBTOT0bYqKk71fTRBg7jHzfjVT2lrLbVxGaSv-iKxEc9tD1fnwDvztip2slcnjA8wHiM/s1600/20170624_140559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGtbKzpPYh1F8D7AUZ-c19GZJXtLRVQ3tBjCfqmXD-deDey8LpZB84U7-t_Kg43njdZjkB344FBTOT0bYqKk71fTRBg7jHzfjVT2lrLbVxGaSv-iKxEc9tD1fnwDvztip2slcnjA8wHiM/s320/20170624_140559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And a size comparison of the two sticks. The Bigly has twice the footprint of the smaller stick (name pending), but the same thickness. Both offer a comfortable amount of room to rest your wrists, but the bigger stick can accommodate the widest of laps. It's superbly stable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJnCdKcoc-mlolwePc0VhZrBPlzoBVkI6jY7cpHJ_obZz8wk1Bb-Sdqf21TRATBKFWlGK1-L1pY8AD29sNlCPIY9H2OhtQalayH-jqlW2A3L3QKFc7F_Utt21jV7Fb7RcwyOOTvInyDOU/s1600/20170624_141203.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjJnCdKcoc-mlolwePc0VhZrBPlzoBVkI6jY7cpHJ_obZz8wk1Bb-Sdqf21TRATBKFWlGK1-L1pY8AD29sNlCPIY9H2OhtQalayH-jqlW2A3L3QKFc7F_Utt21jV7Fb7RcwyOOTvInyDOU/s320/20170624_141203.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-86037672433903794542017-06-20T02:50:00.001-07:002017-06-20T03:12:47.851-07:00Flat-Pack Fightstick - An affordable pre-cut kit which makes a kickass controller!With Mad Catz going out of business, the lack of retail arcade sticks in Australia can only get worse. The cheapest option is still the PS4 Venom from JB HiFi; a gross, cheaply equipped stick which still carries a $200 asking price. For Xbox owners, the situation is even more dire.<br />
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I've posted a few how-to guides covering the DIY building of <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/ikea-arcade-stick-v2-part-two.html" target="_blank">a cheaper, more solid case</a>, but the power tools required still put it beyond the reach of many people. So finally, here's a mailable case which legitimately takes five minutes to assemble, requires absolutely no tools, and looks better than ever.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCeLk2FxDFPviyy2Y-YxxrrPwFmnl4BOKcslzMPMQcW7c93r-LT46HmrpeprzoHtC6lOVdND0YYqK-QskmAP8s70Fe2Cbnr06il_Gw2Hkj8puaz9GyeT5QLK-WjlBIukkiSom_TzADnjA/s1600/20170619_220016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCeLk2FxDFPviyy2Y-YxxrrPwFmnl4BOKcslzMPMQcW7c93r-LT46HmrpeprzoHtC6lOVdND0YYqK-QskmAP8s70Fe2Cbnr06il_Gw2Hkj8puaz9GyeT5QLK-WjlBIukkiSom_TzADnjA/s320/20170619_220016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The kits are fully laser-cut, include the acrylic layer, and only require a splash of PVA to assemble. This one is in bamboo ply, which i'm loving, but a few other woods are available. It's also easy to customise the button layouts, accommodate for a Wiimote, fit Korean or American parts, or go for a hitbox. Two sizes are available, either 400x300mm (A3 size art layers), or 300x210 (A4 size).</div>
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Because the outer frames are still Ikea Stromby picture frames, you can either source them yourself to save a couple of bucks, or have them included in the package as they barely change the postage rate. They're available in raw aluminium or black, and both look fantastic next to typically plastic retail cases.</div>
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And if you drop your stick, those frames are most likely to bear the brunt of the damage. They're sturdy yet easily replaceable, which is more than can be said for Madcatz TE2 end caps these days...</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-tYsgnFfU06Bjn_5OnwMNQ1bBDpuzPJsHgL6ahG_1fKbyt0AuWOU-2uoeeVc0vZAQTJcuVmDOktCtoBQALAlC0WVNPT89OcLakMDNYVqi4JokRRHdxEeDdH5FJdjLygR-ii3CH5bjiI/s1600/20170619_165040.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9-tYsgnFfU06Bjn_5OnwMNQ1bBDpuzPJsHgL6ahG_1fKbyt0AuWOU-2uoeeVc0vZAQTJcuVmDOktCtoBQALAlC0WVNPT89OcLakMDNYVqi4JokRRHdxEeDdH5FJdjLygR-ii3CH5bjiI/s320/20170619_165040.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's the 400x300 and 300x210 kits side-by-side. The wood and acrylic is kept safe under a paper wrap.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBhCo2a6QAlQiw5bo-vSEm9rZOXe4Q-beaqJmGRKGfjCv59POeXVkxEQCxeOVvzy6SUYjtD7FnF8c7PoEcl5Lvle6Lp9tUq99g8QWZ4hIwVwAWJL9Uu1R2cqgEQhJDMgAl1iFOaioPbM/s1600/20170619_165248.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgoBhCo2a6QAlQiw5bo-vSEm9rZOXe4Q-beaqJmGRKGfjCv59POeXVkxEQCxeOVvzy6SUYjtD7FnF8c7PoEcl5Lvle6Lp9tUq99g8QWZ4hIwVwAWJL9Uu1R2cqgEQhJDMgAl1iFOaioPbM/s320/20170619_165248.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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This is the 300x210, done up with the Sega Player 2 layout (my favourite), three 24mm system buttons in the side, and a space for a Neutrik USB adapter in the top edge. It's all customisable.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL4-dSZmBJsh7cftFkLKfe5nO4RrUgiZyTCbQhtjoF3sv-i2AQVqH6qWOJWQad9Ihvhj_Hgwa2edbGLDelBpeuYXgASnVsphF3mz-FjHJX-8pt9UpJGFlEK9UOisG_04u-troS_eMDSWw/s1600/20170619_165733.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiL4-dSZmBJsh7cftFkLKfe5nO4RrUgiZyTCbQhtjoF3sv-i2AQVqH6qWOJWQad9Ihvhj_Hgwa2edbGLDelBpeuYXgASnVsphF3mz-FjHJX-8pt9UpJGFlEK9UOisG_04u-troS_eMDSWw/s320/20170619_165733.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzptg6ItIhuLYae18IU4Nb9WKwLXwoukV3R0uyZiuF6kncWB15JQhgINW9eP6x7WmO4W__9Q4AuPxZf0y0q6PJIZl6jyXyl0PKWF8q-4YRhoWkYDhJU9_6Tro4eiM0I97ZY8mhylR9vo/s1600/20170619_202559.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkzptg6ItIhuLYae18IU4Nb9WKwLXwoukV3R0uyZiuF6kncWB15JQhgINW9eP6x7WmO4W__9Q4AuPxZf0y0q6PJIZl6jyXyl0PKWF8q-4YRhoWkYDhJU9_6Tro4eiM0I97ZY8mhylR9vo/s320/20170619_202559.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The paper looks a little burnt from the laser cutting, but the wood underneath is even, with a smooth charred edge. If you want to paint the stick (i usually leave the top and bottom surfaces raw but paint the mid-section), you can actually leave the paper on to hide the grain, or use the grain.<br />
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Sanding is the only weakness of this plywood, it doesn't work particularly well. If you want to get a really smooth finish you can opt for a more traditional wood like hoop, or build up a few layers of paint and use some wet-and-dry sandpaper to level it.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamHNWRepwH3Ybth6bK35rsvfTKftp5BYFIzaE-cvDHY6DMw1z4yF5mVnq_ojddkRaDJNRjlheuTWK9bDzK4KQE8OBZf-ilESAkVSGFyx7Zz46JPHKjVTpltZrtmuiByvfvVbEbpU-XQI/s1600/20170619_215259.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgamHNWRepwH3Ybth6bK35rsvfTKftp5BYFIzaE-cvDHY6DMw1z4yF5mVnq_ojddkRaDJNRjlheuTWK9bDzK4KQE8OBZf-ilESAkVSGFyx7Zz46JPHKjVTpltZrtmuiByvfvVbEbpU-XQI/s320/20170619_215259.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMV81zeYa7ObLaJ9b26MiNbk4ee-k5vMMyrnC71bzN4wGr8-DdKclQ4CZAoSdAzcPtGd7cdQJ_wSWF1sfkCr3RYdjAPQsFf9LU95ZBmtSlatFBbH6zI8pZAJ8OfM67CKchoEZw1IeKjE/s1600/20170619_215334.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjeMV81zeYa7ObLaJ9b26MiNbk4ee-k5vMMyrnC71bzN4wGr8-DdKclQ4CZAoSdAzcPtGd7cdQJ_wSWF1sfkCr3RYdjAPQsFf9LU95ZBmtSlatFBbH6zI8pZAJ8OfM67CKchoEZw1IeKjE/s320/20170619_215334.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bottom plate separates from the top plate, which has an additional reinforcing layer added to it. This makes the stick incredibly strong and stiff, it won't ever flex in play, and the case can take my 95kg, on one foot.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1sj-8X-HMEWP4DtZ4D4DjlFFNig2EbxxCxwv7DlcUuKEtUj1IEGZMS3uL87PD1J30D3BlIVK5JkkaEoB5YPS0IbAZhH0oJXFA4HT3jZwTyfmlaHHt0VU7erq9Pl6Oze0YMxGnheC67c/s1600/20170619_215412.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgy1sj-8X-HMEWP4DtZ4D4DjlFFNig2EbxxCxwv7DlcUuKEtUj1IEGZMS3uL87PD1J30D3BlIVK5JkkaEoB5YPS0IbAZhH0oJXFA4HT3jZwTyfmlaHHt0VU7erq9Pl6Oze0YMxGnheC67c/s320/20170619_215412.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Apply a little PVA glue to the mating surfaces, and slot the side panels into the top. Make sure to have that top panel with the Neutrik hole the right way around, as it's directional. The countersunk divots will be on the outside.<br />
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I may etch a label on the inside surface to help out. ;)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPCIUC_CRWK3EA2-6rHd5XDZO92Gec9WqXFVyaWXWgGr20uZV5qyGoj2G_Z9OrHznp4FaGbI2u2R5i6fME7R_vGbk1MtRBtv_nGhLduMTWOctbp3X9XBzZPJ8rU6mgzQ9P8i96G79qGg/s1600/20170619_215500.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhrPCIUC_CRWK3EA2-6rHd5XDZO92Gec9WqXFVyaWXWgGr20uZV5qyGoj2G_Z9OrHznp4FaGbI2u2R5i6fME7R_vGbk1MtRBtv_nGhLduMTWOctbp3X9XBzZPJ8rU6mgzQ9P8i96G79qGg/s320/20170619_215500.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The case with all four sides installed.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlbNc5t_l62bTiQ-Jdnebjeky-yLebTVMbt7cJ30bcqMLag7odpOWWbelrSjRN4_Z4eBaacCZlvadLN5AsIjWdO4L-DD6AWCRzYBbUDDQRZhO00tc9ygpnc8odWomZmP_55vDZTV85dI/s1600/20170619_215528.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFlbNc5t_l62bTiQ-Jdnebjeky-yLebTVMbt7cJ30bcqMLag7odpOWWbelrSjRN4_Z4eBaacCZlvadLN5AsIjWdO4L-DD6AWCRzYBbUDDQRZhO00tc9ygpnc8odWomZmP_55vDZTV85dI/s320/20170619_215528.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The bottom plate slots on last, pulling the sides tightly together. The glue should only take an hour or so to have functional strength, but total curing may take up to 24 hours depending on environmental conditions. Standard glue protocol.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDDICkELTMYVEoKAgOtK9VF2UJYzT2_pmqdfXrA3S5FZIc7SRbV8lEDE4NvIraZ_QJQCVkz_13ERsJMXeGdtwPNWsBCEXrhWrOFSn7H8PWUzPBbwt2WylSVEv3xJSuPHF8gWMGYnODD8/s1600/20170619_214940.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYDDICkELTMYVEoKAgOtK9VF2UJYzT2_pmqdfXrA3S5FZIc7SRbV8lEDE4NvIraZ_QJQCVkz_13ERsJMXeGdtwPNWsBCEXrhWrOFSn7H8PWUzPBbwt2WylSVEv3xJSuPHF8gWMGYnODD8/s320/20170619_214940.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I've etched the button labels found on Brook PCB's into the case. This just makes it slightly easier to remember the wiring order, as sometimes even i get it backwards when working from the inside.<br />
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The indent for the stick will fit any standard Sanwa or Seimitsu stick. Other sticks, like the Fanta or even Happ can be accommodated for at the ordering stage.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48EPxE2oBG-Zfrw8trDIjudMPePnYz9UOF-jB0Vm_b-A89epPRIV8-6yshdyj3e3ohkTopRJeL_dtw0A6RuId5Z1EgTijvvH32Ei-w4XcC6KyugvyiTXmcFPrBkDNSD1lgpmUyDCaSYY/s1600/20170619_215023.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj48EPxE2oBG-Zfrw8trDIjudMPePnYz9UOF-jB0Vm_b-A89epPRIV8-6yshdyj3e3ohkTopRJeL_dtw0A6RuId5Z1EgTijvvH32Ei-w4XcC6KyugvyiTXmcFPrBkDNSD1lgpmUyDCaSYY/s320/20170619_215023.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's the side view. You can see the system buttons are indented to protect against accidental presses during a fight. They're still easy to reach, but out of the way.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DFcouFgmqlJMFQxk0hzHjSYknjgY8-ba1CRntsEtpb7SeBSrKHmpUa7_mWRMQgy0DQAN8pQQb_P81gOm6SPKNDwd0bCWZ5UBDDQuUzDGtp3oj0tYFeC0yh1Y_2__qA4QCeLU-SFLD7g/s1600/20170619_215106.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7DFcouFgmqlJMFQxk0hzHjSYknjgY8-ba1CRntsEtpb7SeBSrKHmpUa7_mWRMQgy0DQAN8pQQb_P81gOm6SPKNDwd0bCWZ5UBDDQuUzDGtp3oj0tYFeC0yh1Y_2__qA4QCeLU-SFLD7g/s320/20170619_215106.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the top view. From here you can easily install the joystick with the included M4x10mm countersunk bolts.<br />
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There are also a couple of options for the wood finish of the top surface:<br />
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<ul>
<li>A slightly weaker case can be built which eliminates the visible tabs (the black stripes) for the totally smooth finish typical of my earlier designs.</li>
<li>A design or pattern can be etched across the timber, to act as an art layer while preserving the natural timber look. Things like button labels can be baked into the surface.</li>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXyfiKSS7IYchJCVyQuHt5Jd_ETYz81mAtneJlf7ZQq4YYshlguhSdlOTFXDg0lKNKf0GP5KtuYSBB2wZgqQUIytVqYZAo9WxJcb8wNFOpuCBikHGm1_XRiwN1Cld4ujtVbJbd3jOQ-0/s1600/20170619_215609.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTXyfiKSS7IYchJCVyQuHt5Jd_ETYz81mAtneJlf7ZQq4YYshlguhSdlOTFXDg0lKNKf0GP5KtuYSBB2wZgqQUIytVqYZAo9WxJcb8wNFOpuCBikHGm1_XRiwN1Cld4ujtVbJbd3jOQ-0/s320/20170619_215609.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The acrylic simply lays over the top of the timber, with or without an art layer under it. It's also possible to stack up to three layers of acrylic, which allows for 3D effects to the art. I've seen it done a few times and it can look pretty awesome!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNm4xs-CKYpo8RBqHY_x4-_oGNz9_xGpP_ugjfXgmaXGBUAsQdPRyvmMXUgv1bs39C2WCR7MS3jgrrVlvpW_goLElon-k5SPOcl6kfmwWMH6tgr_kKmeZhj0uFABwi7fN-7TAhRN1aXsU/s1600/20170619_215658.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNm4xs-CKYpo8RBqHY_x4-_oGNz9_xGpP_ugjfXgmaXGBUAsQdPRyvmMXUgv1bs39C2WCR7MS3jgrrVlvpW_goLElon-k5SPOcl6kfmwWMH6tgr_kKmeZhj0uFABwi7fN-7TAhRN1aXsU/s320/20170619_215658.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then the top is clamped in place with the first Ikea Stromby frame, held down by the supplied spring-steel corner clips. The only work involved is in removing the glass which is bonded to the frame with silicone glue. You can carefully use a solvent to remove the glue, or use gentle pressure (and gloves!) to press the glass out.<br />
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Or i can do that for you!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM1OErpo-KjqD-9_RUrqZjaSxaYy3rPW1KBF7cRGnbm3d1H8n3EfmLqy2bd1aEq0w4A2z4NJlYO-MpQTKoizkCD1W9PNPR7TV9Cx2v71Iz-iHPOyjk5TJmiTPYJr3G0y_ktG7fbSk6Ko/s1600/20170619_220016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFM1OErpo-KjqD-9_RUrqZjaSxaYy3rPW1KBF7cRGnbm3d1H8n3EfmLqy2bd1aEq0w4A2z4NJlYO-MpQTKoizkCD1W9PNPR7TV9Cx2v71Iz-iHPOyjk5TJmiTPYJr3G0y_ktG7fbSk6Ko/s320/20170619_220016.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Then the bottom frame goes on, with an optional art layer under it (double art!). I generally leave the glass in this frame as glass is more abrasion resistant than the acrylic used in the top. Some little silicone feet make it play nice on desks.<br />
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Some more spring clips hold the bottom on. This makes access to the hardware inside a breeze, with no tools required.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPfxBgKsWOzrrW0Wm6hK8PQH1uSRrKbu5Way803BxCtwKK-zdPVgFhU1izeIGe5BZWCHJ_3Jo5ZKKm7hb1g192htuyCTsHUVh3MizqJdrFiOreQkcXHnYgduriLJIr60s3vQISHZPiQ4/s1600/20170619_215932.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifPfxBgKsWOzrrW0Wm6hK8PQH1uSRrKbu5Way803BxCtwKK-zdPVgFhU1izeIGe5BZWCHJ_3Jo5ZKKm7hb1g192htuyCTsHUVh3MizqJdrFiOreQkcXHnYgduriLJIr60s3vQISHZPiQ4/s320/20170619_215932.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The side view of the completed build. These surfaces are the one's i'd typically spray paint. With black frames, using flat black paint makes the timber disappear into a void, which gives the stick a really cool, architectural "floating" look.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxC9wjKTUTx0a-3xRS8Qrec9BrMHBxk6je3PT_GGrO1VmxcI_fdO6AMqEmgI6ccufw0kx8JRp3nmG2AQId1Fs9cMuk5LvV0-Ifdt0i8EjPJd0ruxcuwRIro286KHyB5Oc4IbsGGN-g3E/s1600/_20161006_161900.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvxC9wjKTUTx0a-3xRS8Qrec9BrMHBxk6je3PT_GGrO1VmxcI_fdO6AMqEmgI6ccufw0kx8JRp3nmG2AQId1Fs9cMuk5LvV0-Ifdt0i8EjPJd0ruxcuwRIro286KHyB5Oc4IbsGGN-g3E/s320/_20161006_161900.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Like that.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVFZTTyQwKAFFrQ4IkADhi_ssndoNzT-91Xd3uvaG6FU4UL4dGJrDJNuhw-j2fUxamxScnxLT039L0Tp50N3BS6xnx2eqe0cDsKUBdlpxX-fq_CeU4VZNAJ2sZIkrEEarp7qQPXr3Mr0/s1600/20170619_220831.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUVFZTTyQwKAFFrQ4IkADhi_ssndoNzT-91Xd3uvaG6FU4UL4dGJrDJNuhw-j2fUxamxScnxLT039L0Tp50N3BS6xnx2eqe0cDsKUBdlpxX-fq_CeU4VZNAJ2sZIkrEEarp7qQPXr3Mr0/s320/20170619_220831.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And the final weight of the little guy comes in at 1.4kg. With a stick and buttons it's right around 2kg, which feels comfortably sturdy. The bigger stick comes in at around 2.5kg all up.</div>
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So that's the flat-pack stick! If you're interested in getting your hands on one, the price starts at $100 + shipping, depending on options, which results in a full stick costing less than the Venom!. If you want to check the stick out in person and live in the greater Brisbane area, i'll be bringing a few out to the bigger meets in the region over the new few months (be sure to check out OzHadou!).</div>
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If you have any DIY or general design questions, hit me up!</div>
Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-24369972606329666682017-06-18T16:06:00.000-07:002017-06-20T03:26:33.968-07:00Nintendo Switch meets Gamecube<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Nintendo Switch is a good console, and a great handheld. The option to swap coloured controllers out is a great move towards customisation, and that also opens the door for custom painting hues not available via retail.</div>
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My favourite Nintendo colour of all time is known as "Spice Orange", so in lieu of living with the blue/red or grey options available at launch i went with a third option.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhXZK034Rhy9I0H7N24xu_WuZhWOUJktbUUGPghY5EghxFtckqSQA5le6PuqT7UhjWj8oMFmBsyKx3O1b6lRtD_rzJpgrPyqxVG6-Nnulo6A9c77qY6K8_wpWkBb_8MVWTtU-0DGqw2Uo/s1600/DSC_0400.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhXZK034Rhy9I0H7N24xu_WuZhWOUJktbUUGPghY5EghxFtckqSQA5le6PuqT7UhjWj8oMFmBsyKx3O1b6lRtD_rzJpgrPyqxVG6-Nnulo6A9c77qY6K8_wpWkBb_8MVWTtU-0DGqw2Uo/s320/DSC_0400.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a>Both the original Gamecube purple and the aforementioned spice orange are right up there as my favourite gaming hardware colour choices of all time. The lime green Wii shown when it was initially revealed as the "Revolution" would've been my number one, but sadly it never came to be.</div>
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The previous generation consoles were monochromatic boxes, the peers of the Gamecube were monochromatic boxes, and the following generation were monochromatic boxes. The PS4 and Xbox One are <i>truly</i> dreary devices, with the original design of the latter having more in common with a window-box air conditioner than any forward-looking technology.<br />
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The N64 made admirable inroads into colour by releasing a rainbow of controllers, but with the GC Nintendo threw off the shackles of hiding their boxes in with the entertainment system, and embraced their design as a stand-out feature of the living room. Gaming consoles are nothing to be ashamed about.<br />
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This was then taken further with the Wii. Its slanted design broke from the square, angular regularity of every other system. Its dominant, bright blue light breathing a cool glow across the room with every message, news blast, and update.<br />
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<a href="http://www.vooks.net/img/2015/05/colouredrevolution.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="631" data-original-width="800" height="252" src="https://www.vooks.net/img/2015/05/colouredrevolution.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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It took far too long for the red one to be released, and that green is goddamned glorious!<br />
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But i've got my spice orange joy-cons. They're great.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbyJOOfgHWi_AyOAL-X7qcUIRE5Y_I5AU6BuAd-zdR7zDa-zqCg6r7P0597meq7F-gfjiaWQ5caYUErnIaz-S3N6YP2ViajzrGkku7KJr6qausFTib7Yq1EOlDamyqOwirZrcVA_Gb1JQ/s1600/20170618_162449.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbyJOOfgHWi_AyOAL-X7qcUIRE5Y_I5AU6BuAd-zdR7zDa-zqCg6r7P0597meq7F-gfjiaWQ5caYUErnIaz-S3N6YP2ViajzrGkku7KJr6qausFTib7Yq1EOlDamyqOwirZrcVA_Gb1JQ/s320/20170618_162449.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now, maybe a purple set to go with them...Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-70057814796486309122017-06-18T05:18:00.003-07:002017-06-18T05:18:42.540-07:00Gear VR Blaster - Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/gear-vr-blaster-part-1.html">Part 1</a>.</i></div>
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With a little bit of glue, some scrap wood, and a dremel, the gun is full of buttons and all ready to be wired up!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWxsWM9QWQj2LzL1gAieldZ-Ugit1tvq49MS3AqTWGOzRVJ2KZLxb77_iOrPGHTOipL2Rb4j2xyf7O-Pqhgo-vg6paV9AxStuaqmYx8HbFZzFQrCAEziwUgGhH-9aeuYSvH8FV8q8QTQ/s1600/20170527_205958.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNWxsWM9QWQj2LzL1gAieldZ-Ugit1tvq49MS3AqTWGOzRVJ2KZLxb77_iOrPGHTOipL2Rb4j2xyf7O-Pqhgo-vg6paV9AxStuaqmYx8HbFZzFQrCAEziwUgGhH-9aeuYSvH8FV8q8QTQ/s320/20170527_205958.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>Once i removed a vestigial post via dremel, the trigger button slotted right in. A little epoxy and a plywood spacer now keep it in place. The slide button is located with a 7mm ply bulkhead, with the existing air chamber used as a pushrod. The back button was glued face down to the existing barrel release button. It's a perfect fit to be held stationary by a bulkhead of the other half when the gun is assembled.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGu7Zm5KjOfjdqHwMuXJCr55fOkAXdYrPnxq7czw_bmxLsiyUkDQ8E8JCqqRN3U5cRkrK8FrOdCkM9lET_2w9npz793mYHhP28LXLorY8PnwQUpNBNURCdydUHQGYVxkLQabhOodbAvrg/s1600/20170527_210005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGu7Zm5KjOfjdqHwMuXJCr55fOkAXdYrPnxq7czw_bmxLsiyUkDQ8E8JCqqRN3U5cRkrK8FrOdCkM9lET_2w9npz793mYHhP28LXLorY8PnwQUpNBNURCdydUHQGYVxkLQabhOodbAvrg/s320/20170527_210005.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I shaped a piece of 3mm ply to act as the left outer skin for the barrel area. It'll be glued down and have the touch pad installed in the lower left corner.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DQYE6AqrtdGKY3nFUeWlSa-hKFJnVTBnz4703C5dbvBdBfEpX3ECDCOQ2twWqtHgiO7xU1mzETVZMmY45b7nuVtKS-adnEIAbTavXPwfq_QcJRBTWRIM_KCpDwOTCtAcezn5SkPQ4aM/s1600/20170527_210343.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5DQYE6AqrtdGKY3nFUeWlSa-hKFJnVTBnz4703C5dbvBdBfEpX3ECDCOQ2twWqtHgiO7xU1mzETVZMmY45b7nuVtKS-adnEIAbTavXPwfq_QcJRBTWRIM_KCpDwOTCtAcezn5SkPQ4aM/s320/20170527_210343.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The right side gets a similar treatment, but will be made removable so i can change the batteries. Soaking the plywood then clamping it in place produces a nice slight curve which fits the body of the gun well.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhSRiloAj_lvkxAIxdTWpmu8kpo1p81VIKmYpcBcOcv_-Mcxt_FUoe5m_Fi412kY65gPtArw5_2bSSPbu7mH3YA22lXWNPQkDrWqHV9Bn2ORynsQwD_YzMS00BvaHV0feWYXKkFrF2wAs/s1600/20170527_210417.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhSRiloAj_lvkxAIxdTWpmu8kpo1p81VIKmYpcBcOcv_-Mcxt_FUoe5m_Fi412kY65gPtArw5_2bSSPbu7mH3YA22lXWNPQkDrWqHV9Bn2ORynsQwD_YzMS00BvaHV0feWYXKkFrF2wAs/s320/20170527_210417.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's a dummy fit of the touch pad. I just have to drill a hole underneath it to feed the cable through, then stick it down. The positioning is perfect, with forward set to left in the picture (so up is right, etc).<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_haxZJ3HK1pmkX-ks-413non0zUvySaxZUvfFZN25_qjCVgCy_fzbToKG087cSaNeSBCjPCpj0wneb9luZdcDZk41k6vL__wuD58upoUSHGb4xjusGPNU6nPVP1MJCg81VUrzo2dI-IU/s1600/20170527_210728.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_haxZJ3HK1pmkX-ks-413non0zUvySaxZUvfFZN25_qjCVgCy_fzbToKG087cSaNeSBCjPCpj0wneb9luZdcDZk41k6vL__wuD58upoUSHGb4xjusGPNU6nPVP1MJCg81VUrzo2dI-IU/s320/20170527_210728.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A teeny bit of soldering, and the whole thing is wired up. I couldn't be bothered to check if the controller was common-ground, so i just ran two wires per button. It's much less of a deal here than in something like an arcade stick!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mJGtTYJRlDQNenOnz6w4BcOabpwZPU_XSh6i_o2E9462syYjH2Rtw76EIVYgn8ftGC0nbo10V8nRvGPRgaiq_kUG4qo135xVKV3Bood0ImqrHsckU1xGcyK3gbFafEe0k9MD-VVX24s/s1600/20170528_131631.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3mJGtTYJRlDQNenOnz6w4BcOabpwZPU_XSh6i_o2E9462syYjH2Rtw76EIVYgn8ftGC0nbo10V8nRvGPRgaiq_kUG4qo135xVKV3Bood0ImqrHsckU1xGcyK3gbFafEe0k9MD-VVX24s/s320/20170528_131631.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6Ba23uzvZYzOCxvmAbKaB_42uP0-qS2BnvwggAZqpYEQz123sUJVo97vx3hs5aqb_lgxbjXUDEbzMsGSxAfPYeMvgev_arJOtTIELKkwDYL7nXn2PNePQQ62gmp7VwOtvukgOomPsk4/s1600/20170530_165407.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic6Ba23uzvZYzOCxvmAbKaB_42uP0-qS2BnvwggAZqpYEQz123sUJVo97vx3hs5aqb_lgxbjXUDEbzMsGSxAfPYeMvgev_arJOtTIELKkwDYL7nXn2PNePQQ62gmp7VwOtvukgOomPsk4/s320/20170530_165407.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And with the ply panel epoxied into place, with the pass-through hole for the touch pad.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjFHpRgbbhogzx5B2mvDx2C-xGFAc417Cr_bWvLBwWRsOCcZf_4LEM7AMVaf9hEbdzMjOvbwYBGdqZO9me8PdFbfQnRzJF0k3XH_FSVF1k2c2fBM2YMOnqxT84eb2vvhYnE4H50wqB2k/s1600/20170530_165420.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwjFHpRgbbhogzx5B2mvDx2C-xGFAc417Cr_bWvLBwWRsOCcZf_4LEM7AMVaf9hEbdzMjOvbwYBGdqZO9me8PdFbfQnRzJF0k3XH_FSVF1k2c2fBM2YMOnqxT84eb2vvhYnE4H50wqB2k/s320/20170530_165420.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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While all that was going on, the right side plywood cover plate was being curved. I soaked the wood, then clamped it in place. This will relax the wood so it fits on smoothly without requiring much tension on the fasteners.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdbz12qq4nXaw8EgN_5OdLboB2JDzLQYDTW6hAkIWS2mNbzqq_-XVKRJwiop3wIB-t4vMCvWpKmFzujrP7AUJKi6MisxORZ9TFROi_yj-QBrCZAyMzxg0iPHZ7YT7HPSQN2I4YUKf5OY/s1600/20170530_165342.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSdbz12qq4nXaw8EgN_5OdLboB2JDzLQYDTW6hAkIWS2mNbzqq_-XVKRJwiop3wIB-t4vMCvWpKmFzujrP7AUJKi6MisxORZ9TFROi_yj-QBrCZAyMzxg0iPHZ7YT7HPSQN2I4YUKf5OY/s320/20170530_165342.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A little spray of black paint later, just to get closer to the original Gear VR aesthetic, and now it looks like a cosplay prop.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiDgC94aOI5lKIwxiurwiVEpJw1wzVlSwtTC3fOVTcJZIKHwiECMyci0DwTqcby3MAEn5njiarsJZEVzE1zqrK8tHYimyoiwSDKYiL1hnPso_fztPf0St0vMUNjHG_bzaSaNHfveKDBU/s1600/20170618_212726.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMiDgC94aOI5lKIwxiurwiVEpJw1wzVlSwtTC3fOVTcJZIKHwiECMyci0DwTqcby3MAEn5njiarsJZEVzE1zqrK8tHYimyoiwSDKYiL1hnPso_fztPf0St0vMUNjHG_bzaSaNHfveKDBU/s320/20170618_212726.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The touch-pad is surface mounted with a little hot-glue, with the cable fed through the hole drilled earlier. The positioning falls within easy reach for the thumb, reminiscent of the Namco GunCon.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc86m6QFUC44V2Mwl3L3i5S09vIdNrFWvAub6s0eoTQp3rxfh_Rl5Ot0-PwT_9HzFuY8jYY2o3iR6ZB6YmmTr8_rmD0_D-016Rk2clcxMC1W4ujXpsguN4PwlAgGKqRkQpZkPrUUbhhLM/s1600/20170618_212935.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjc86m6QFUC44V2Mwl3L3i5S09vIdNrFWvAub6s0eoTQp3rxfh_Rl5Ot0-PwT_9HzFuY8jYY2o3iR6ZB6YmmTr8_rmD0_D-016Rk2clcxMC1W4ujXpsguN4PwlAgGKqRkQpZkPrUUbhhLM/s320/20170618_212935.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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And with the slide fitted to activate the home button, the externals are done! I'm still tossing up whether or not to paint the slide, that Nerf logo IS pretty obnoxious.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpwC3EI30sCLPPD-OrHWI2mSDwdIip-WJidEtnbI1B7Pg0CnY4gkD4S4FFTX6gg0wJecH5PvSdi864k2lGJpBlqPXDI9ApitB5oYM6BYMeO9wewiNE8DiBQrYUiCveYKG9ARRB635aiY/s1600/20170618_213242.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgzpwC3EI30sCLPPD-OrHWI2mSDwdIip-WJidEtnbI1B7Pg0CnY4gkD4S4FFTX6gg0wJecH5PvSdi864k2lGJpBlqPXDI9ApitB5oYM6BYMeO9wewiNE8DiBQrYUiCveYKG9ARRB635aiY/s320/20170618_213242.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The third and final part will cover wiring up the battery pack, and fixing the PCB at the right angle. Then it's ready to go in Dead and Buried, Drop Dead, and SWAT Academy. My mum is going to love this!</div>
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Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-6253965573958394392017-05-28T01:30:00.000-07:002017-05-29T00:55:40.107-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick - Mini Edition Part 3<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-2.html">Part 2</a>.</i></div>
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To put off dealing with the wiring, i decided to set up some glamour shots of the work so far, set against my previous full-sized IkeaStick, with it's black-on-black colour scheme.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IxUiNpqM1V79gFg6MagKgF7mlTlUIpwZO1jDYVta0decjm1L6P4m1lKl1P8S7bmGWEq4RCHJfqY2scZ7EdDn-Opxd0ANHBP3RwPJVw2h3gQ54UacAeokjh5oHIAUkbYGqiQ_w7ufOGI/s1600/_20161015_135512.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj6IxUiNpqM1V79gFg6MagKgF7mlTlUIpwZO1jDYVta0decjm1L6P4m1lKl1P8S7bmGWEq4RCHJfqY2scZ7EdDn-Opxd0ANHBP3RwPJVw2h3gQ54UacAeokjh5oHIAUkbYGqiQ_w7ufOGI/s320/_20161015_135512.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The big 40x30cm stick is almost the exact same dimensions as the venerable Madcatz TE2+. The mini stick is quite literally half the size, but is almost the exact same dimensions as the less venerable Madcatz Fightstick Alpha. Except unlike that stick, this one features the full set of face buttons, premium hardware, and won't blow away in a stiff breeze.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwviChdicY6h2A6XpeikJUkbvUs7AHzUmeFX6psRwksyGzw44PdftfvKzos5UAS9gtR_IWXZW_HByIbQf9ZwTdlUJzAQF2n8jAGoYVCsXhyphenhyphenIGcZuR_2eHqLnb6-lz4SB7RHn-X9vmLZTY/s1600/_20161015_135557.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwviChdicY6h2A6XpeikJUkbvUs7AHzUmeFX6psRwksyGzw44PdftfvKzos5UAS9gtR_IWXZW_HByIbQf9ZwTdlUJzAQF2n8jAGoYVCsXhyphenhyphenIGcZuR_2eHqLnb6-lz4SB7RHn-X9vmLZTY/s320/_20161015_135557.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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So back to the workshop, and it's time to mount the joystick. I lined up my Sanwa JLF and drilled the holes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji83OdxvgChvUWBVOipl6TqdROpWDeaUflelWGSy-aJ0bLzqir2isp_G0m7jjWak3xYga-aiJuLJrRF6uPrtFWMtcKzXLo1vBZA93YZxpShCSZ4aOv9cOTfsbiLcH1j59Z-1mSD78x878/s1600/_20161020_193316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEji83OdxvgChvUWBVOipl6TqdROpWDeaUflelWGSy-aJ0bLzqir2isp_G0m7jjWak3xYga-aiJuLJrRF6uPrtFWMtcKzXLo1vBZA93YZxpShCSZ4aOv9cOTfsbiLcH1j59Z-1mSD78x878/s320/_20161020_193316.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I can't remember the exact size bolts i used, but they were tiny, and feature countersunk heads. To do the countersinks i fitted a large bit to my drill, set it to reverse, and pushed down hard. This has much less risk of the bit biting and tearing a hole through the case, and it hardens the countersink.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMMkMC8TZWtwm_JZl-HdVOGYsuCKGYq-RhNGZWjjxv37w0Y9kwl7_2nKX2Iu2FpOz7Fz5tERfbGyZDXaEI4tu59lzqm8JOvqL7IRC9yZdPwcpEpOuiNk9pc9ruXLYuAU4knHbFYY2t6U/s1600/_20161020_193355.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwMMkMC8TZWtwm_JZl-HdVOGYsuCKGYq-RhNGZWjjxv37w0Y9kwl7_2nKX2Iu2FpOz7Fz5tERfbGyZDXaEI4tu59lzqm8JOvqL7IRC9yZdPwcpEpOuiNk9pc9ruXLYuAU4knHbFYY2t6U/s320/_20161020_193355.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Flush.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi188GHvwA0yifwhY4DJdLKKqqg8jVwsKjDevp25yuQtUuLYdwkXQuKEofT_54fIwOH9U_mW9CFvSgDFdSvdmqenNB_K5BgnMCAafAtb7MghYZoW023Z-dSWiFwHibshp6COohJfc6Esa8/s1600/_20161020_193222.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi188GHvwA0yifwhY4DJdLKKqqg8jVwsKjDevp25yuQtUuLYdwkXQuKEofT_54fIwOH9U_mW9CFvSgDFdSvdmqenNB_K5BgnMCAafAtb7MghYZoW023Z-dSWiFwHibshp6COohJfc6Esa8/s320/_20161020_193222.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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For this particular build i used a Hori Pokken controller, but my previous Wii sticks have used these knockoffs of the Classic Controller Pro. They have rubbish build quality, but the PCB is actually easier to work with than the official controller!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi005HCsZ_jOS_5Y6ChdHqyxM31GhDsdkrkaNA6NIOk1wHu_cXJk5MBMDie9d-YU6m5t8F1kc3dPIlfyGSxe_7dup9McLLT-PNSfDTebVZ055Lqu0R_jRcuCwbthAOEFObwlyBBiF9RDPs/s1600/_20160719_215049.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi005HCsZ_jOS_5Y6ChdHqyxM31GhDsdkrkaNA6NIOk1wHu_cXJk5MBMDie9d-YU6m5t8F1kc3dPIlfyGSxe_7dup9McLLT-PNSfDTebVZ055Lqu0R_jRcuCwbthAOEFObwlyBBiF9RDPs/s320/_20160719_215049.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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If you use one of these, it's imperative that you leave the analogue sticks attached! If you remove them, they will not auto-calibrate on startup, and you'll end up with phantom inputs in your games. I made the mistake once, and it was a fairly annoying task re-soldering the thing.<br />
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You can clip the L and R button PCB's off, but write down which terminal is which first. I like to use these ground connections.<br />
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Speaking of, both of these controller use common grounds, so the wiring is relatively simple. All you have to do is trace the positive wires for each button, and solder to the corresponding pad. The pads which are joined together are the grounds, which makes it dead easy to tell!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabNW63Qj9hqKjS8-XpANNk8raUfh-nOXyv03nbFr1zRa7tJLnqfNnEoi95Gl1IwT-FVYbYD2nNLAaCfYXcHrT8p5mxIkgx4V0yA3i_pA-S17sO9YHTp_sjKxkIS2OAsXY5lTb1beFGkQ/s1600/_20160719_215118.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjabNW63Qj9hqKjS8-XpANNk8raUfh-nOXyv03nbFr1zRa7tJLnqfNnEoi95Gl1IwT-FVYbYD2nNLAaCfYXcHrT8p5mxIkgx4V0yA3i_pA-S17sO9YHTp_sjKxkIS2OAsXY5lTb1beFGkQ/s320/_20160719_215118.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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You'll need four wires for the d-pad, four for the face buttons, four for the L, R, and their corresponding Z buttons, and also +, -, and home. Those system buttons are required even if you have a Wiimote hooked up, as the Wiimote itself is disabled in game. I didn't factor for this at first and couldn't get past the title screen of Balloon Fight as a result!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCXTcCVsg4HYBjB9HzCVg3-GC941mrFoScRUOUkTA8XOkwPshES1AfabvC9qidWqzlfOND_XdFfST7EJNSTC7Tm3fHN92ZSLKoD9zBeWfffG2eT1tUFWJCtbGFXzCIrAbmh9vrnHXJCw/s1600/_20161023_204521.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbCXTcCVsg4HYBjB9HzCVg3-GC941mrFoScRUOUkTA8XOkwPshES1AfabvC9qidWqzlfOND_XdFfST7EJNSTC7Tm3fHN92ZSLKoD9zBeWfffG2eT1tUFWJCtbGFXzCIrAbmh9vrnHXJCw/s320/_20161023_204521.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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So here's the controller going in. I mounted the PCB to the inside of the case with a couple of very short screws. An alternative method is to mount the PCB like the joystick, using the flush countersunk bolts.<br />
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I wrapped the joystick wires in a conduit, and put a little heatshrink tube over each end to tidy things up. Then i soldered the direction positives down, and connected the ground wire to the L ground.<br />
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You can see how tight for space the case is. I had to space the three side buttons to fit between the rows of face buttons, and could only install them after half of the PCB was soldered up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk80StlbsUVliLi78YyRGHXs7DOMoSote4e878-7sZyPxe0A617B60ulJlOn6_5vizcSKbLqWkPmh-mvcTIfpzJhujF0kK-SsnXhdh6OMOLW10s0wrt3RaSowiHHjpd3oCHQUiZ1D8m0A/s1600/_20161023_204448.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjk80StlbsUVliLi78YyRGHXs7DOMoSote4e878-7sZyPxe0A617B60ulJlOn6_5vizcSKbLqWkPmh-mvcTIfpzJhujF0kK-SsnXhdh6OMOLW10s0wrt3RaSowiHHjpd3oCHQUiZ1D8m0A/s320/_20161023_204448.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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For each row of buttons, i made up a run wires in a conduit wrap. The ground wire is daisy chained between spade connectors, and a positive wire is paired up.</div>
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I cut a hole in the conduit for each button, then push the wires through, and seal it down with a bit of heatshrink. It's not fabulously tidy, but it's much better than the tumbleweed of wire it would be otherwise!<br />
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Here's a close up of what's going on inside that wrap. I just twisted short runs of black wire together, then crimped them into a spade connector and secured it with solder. It's possible to do all of the buttons on a single ground chain, but i like to pair everything up.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfQRoP5sLQ_BLBABZ-K4KawIKf2Klzzcm8T8IersX2p6pSEdGJ_EwyG61fars-9eSj_jMJih1J4vC5_eFVNIX3goqSouJIkeLIp1U2IFmiEOgDwzBS-yTBC8vtfetvYIoB004fNVo5y18/s1600/_20160425_154131.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfQRoP5sLQ_BLBABZ-K4KawIKf2Klzzcm8T8IersX2p6pSEdGJ_EwyG61fars-9eSj_jMJih1J4vC5_eFVNIX3goqSouJIkeLIp1U2IFmiEOgDwzBS-yTBC8vtfetvYIoB004fNVo5y18/s320/_20160425_154131.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Here's that tumbleweed i was talking about! If you want to save time, this works just as well as a tidy arcade stick. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0jg3G_yyoGz1nh5qkPs2NrQTewDH3md6B3dPWpbN5zbJSboIBz2RyncBRaqu5e5d6Vk-EfDeopV_8EtQJupdZHY-Md-GeVvfT0mCQaBirTjGvl4t4HyisNiRLJLGHsIuOtESiw5pZlI/s1600/_20160425_154058.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjX0jg3G_yyoGz1nh5qkPs2NrQTewDH3md6B3dPWpbN5zbJSboIBz2RyncBRaqu5e5d6Vk-EfDeopV_8EtQJupdZHY-Md-GeVvfT0mCQaBirTjGvl4t4HyisNiRLJLGHsIuOtESiw5pZlI/s320/_20160425_154058.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now with all three conduit runs made up and installed, we have something like this. For a padhack it's alright, using a dedicated PCB like a Brook Universal Fighting Board nets you astoundingly tidier results.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxDQbDJme0g5HNBK6vfuPzZKQq23JSfwoCCd6gDuTigJIr0mFbaqwjbplGUqwRLEFNiliopxxxAY_ZHAtRXrZ4CzBVMEnWkfRjma67iqL6cZY6_o0bDJN8rpyIWGWVWXGU-MJ1SItAOw/s1600/_20161025_062421.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyxDQbDJme0g5HNBK6vfuPzZKQq23JSfwoCCd6gDuTigJIr0mFbaqwjbplGUqwRLEFNiliopxxxAY_ZHAtRXrZ4CzBVMEnWkfRjma67iqL6cZY6_o0bDJN8rpyIWGWVWXGU-MJ1SItAOw/s320/_20161025_062421.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRPoxceHXNA300AdhXgnLWWTAsQGNDz_Ok4419f-zdHd4bQQs8ATpnLcx-qs3akn3XAyOx3Fm0ZY9npkkytQi249hZ0h-iBjMtDdy95oy3PR5dgLjKCUsWakXB6OX5xu6fmovFbn46EM/s1600/_20161025_062517.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjNRPoxceHXNA300AdhXgnLWWTAsQGNDz_Ok4419f-zdHd4bQQs8ATpnLcx-qs3akn3XAyOx3Fm0ZY9npkkytQi249hZ0h-iBjMtDdy95oy3PR5dgLjKCUsWakXB6OX5xu6fmovFbn46EM/s320/_20161025_062517.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ok, we're pretty much ready to roll! I'll just slap a bit of art on the stick, pop the frames on, and it's game time in <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-4.html">Part 4</a>!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-34012807485164281672017-05-27T07:51:00.002-07:002017-05-29T00:55:47.402-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick - Mini Edition Part 4<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-3.html">Part 3</a>.</i></div>
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The greatest thing about this mini stick is that the art layers are a perfect A4 piece of paper! I chucked some photo paper in my home printer, and was able to bang this out in minutes.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvwjUvhab0GXaI-PveTVhdQgPBcj62uZerT5coEOfm0t4cM_hcu1XbuEv8pe8OXFz_CRhyphenhyphen6o19luu5zF-rnVoTK715UFMHnBmTKRoEVSX868TBVsg3u3SVTUr-o7IKJUimMIVGzoVZ5KY/s1600/_20161016_130207.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhvwjUvhab0GXaI-PveTVhdQgPBcj62uZerT5coEOfm0t4cM_hcu1XbuEv8pe8OXFz_CRhyphenhyphen6o19luu5zF-rnVoTK715UFMHnBmTKRoEVSX868TBVsg3u3SVTUr-o7IKJUimMIVGzoVZ5KY/s320/_20161016_130207.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>A hobby knife made short work of the holes, and while it didn't leave a perfectly smooth edge, the buttons will easily cover that up.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwb0C3Klx1oGRLp0Puo3t9oQ52l29SjVoBG2u09dBIUUPwxD710QeCs2WlpwKXTgTk6Mw29n59RZ9dZ4rudXGLlB4bQ4odmPnihcw9EYGF3SOJpaEk7boQbHkSD6J_reDi6wx7tDGqoMM/s1600/_20161016_130021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiwb0C3Klx1oGRLp0Puo3t9oQ52l29SjVoBG2u09dBIUUPwxD710QeCs2WlpwKXTgTk6Mw29n59RZ9dZ4rudXGLlB4bQ4odmPnihcw9EYGF3SOJpaEk7boQbHkSD6J_reDi6wx7tDGqoMM/s320/_20161016_130021.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I'm not good at photoshop at all, this was a frame i grabbed out of a gif of the Pokemon cartoon. :p<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmTbz7t1EEqqoj83fsN9fdi3YCrR077AhzJOE-lFwD79nKXMGuqFzkRtwfTZlH-JOpHNW5g-ZPZjSUqqY7dmKUz-_xolF_maA6u7XRoSLr4vs7nqjBHshKhwmmNEObu4jzmlIenHcn78/s1600/_20161016_130105.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKmTbz7t1EEqqoj83fsN9fdi3YCrR077AhzJOE-lFwD79nKXMGuqFzkRtwfTZlH-JOpHNW5g-ZPZjSUqqY7dmKUz-_xolF_maA6u7XRoSLr4vs7nqjBHshKhwmmNEObu4jzmlIenHcn78/s320/_20161016_130105.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Because this stick uses a frame on both sides, i also get to have two arts! The bottom frame has a glass layer in it still, so it's more scratch resistant than the styrene in the top. For table grip and to prevent the frame from scratching wooden table tops, i also applied some little sillicone feet, like those pads you put in kitchen cupboards to stop them slamming.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolIffWNep7tf_lBWjC_ZrYvdFpboy5UlpLZqEfdHbmLXkUVbYh0juApMuNhaVzSkGZFNoe-nLd6HUN7ORmI9HaQQr-Yr-FhpF1rbSe4zePMe0kaVak2SSq7T-oul1_IYNW2tDmU4OlHM/s1600/_20161016_162835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgolIffWNep7tf_lBWjC_ZrYvdFpboy5UlpLZqEfdHbmLXkUVbYh0juApMuNhaVzSkGZFNoe-nLd6HUN7ORmI9HaQQr-Yr-FhpF1rbSe4zePMe0kaVak2SSq7T-oul1_IYNW2tDmU4OlHM/s320/_20161016_162835.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And we're done! The frames are held on tightly by using the supplied spring-steel clips. Getting access to the inside of the stick is as simple as popping the clips off. It couldn't be easier!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh36ZdcsgWloUw6twf70SeqNucPdj8QAfW0tn0k459pwZqD6r85cltfhkvPxhtdB93VfJb1i3XVllu2-YpooAldX-Wn6E_mEvqcsIP8IdNcCspwX0stwhhJSE4Qabf0gKaeuywFTZY01_A/s1600/_20161024_191650.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh36ZdcsgWloUw6twf70SeqNucPdj8QAfW0tn0k459pwZqD6r85cltfhkvPxhtdB93VfJb1i3XVllu2-YpooAldX-Wn6E_mEvqcsIP8IdNcCspwX0stwhhJSE4Qabf0gKaeuywFTZY01_A/s320/_20161024_191650.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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While the USB cable doesn't disconnect like on fancy custom sticks, but it does store neatly between the frames when not in use.<br />
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You can also see the system buttons down the side. The indent prevents you from accidentally pausing the game mid-match.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yq58rDaHfPTBQJGJOntbanEUnwRKRjPIE4Kd4UOC3-HcYHhahvV1wt33JbO28-y-YbOrlqKs-Fr7j7XtzHR4wPuyf4eA5JgABxY2bF-o9PqolxInpfrI0x74NYi2l55AcP81bO8SOSU/s1600/_20161024_191743.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1201" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3yq58rDaHfPTBQJGJOntbanEUnwRKRjPIE4Kd4UOC3-HcYHhahvV1wt33JbO28-y-YbOrlqKs-Fr7j7XtzHR4wPuyf4eA5JgABxY2bF-o9PqolxInpfrI0x74NYi2l55AcP81bO8SOSU/s320/_20161024_191743.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
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So there you have it; an easy to build, cheap stick with smart features and a quality aesthetic. This thing hangs with the best retail sticks in terms of finish, and is unbelievably durable (if you drop it you can easily replace the impact-absorbing frames). For any money it's a good stick, but dollar-for-dollar it's unbeatable!<br />
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-2754687390282925102017-05-27T06:49:00.001-07:002017-05-28T01:30:31.525-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick - Mini Edition Part 2<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-1.html">Part 1</a>.</i></div>
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With the glue dried, it's time for a test fit of the Wiimote.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDjhRihcewZTLGkSl46ynVF9Znk0pGceA92uegW_wmvALn714KLRV7gdlrEADoELDnPCRpWzzV5AkfJZFzfZ1vdn4hREzSyVBN4pq8UJPEMMg7RGaGzMqjBzGtDHCbiVJD1F6IoVG-58/s1600/_20161014_182358.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXDjhRihcewZTLGkSl46ynVF9Znk0pGceA92uegW_wmvALn714KLRV7gdlrEADoELDnPCRpWzzV5AkfJZFzfZ1vdn4hREzSyVBN4pq8UJPEMMg7RGaGzMqjBzGtDHCbiVJD1F6IoVG-58/s320/_20161014_182358.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And with the frame on you can see why it was necessary to put those spacers in. Without them the power, +, and - buttons would be obscured or cause accidental inputs.<br />
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If you didn't need to fit a Wiimote, the case could be significantly thinner. With the walls at 40mm high, you'll have enough clearance to fit any regular seimitsu or sanwa joystick, and the whole thing will be 55mm thick. Any less and it could start getting dicey with clearance.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYPLWraLE-r8DFhSfUzFKBn4oWuMfyt0NeRzaSqkInqOFXpeqcVy5sgDHXgjIGTEJMlETBfjPwTmOWF6baRg1mfiHSX9Inwiam_luLa8D1TdsbJZueJzycvhQue52MrCtZ5t1mneoqZg/s1600/_20161014_182427.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOYPLWraLE-r8DFhSfUzFKBn4oWuMfyt0NeRzaSqkInqOFXpeqcVy5sgDHXgjIGTEJMlETBfjPwTmOWF6baRg1mfiHSX9Inwiam_luLa8D1TdsbJZueJzycvhQue52MrCtZ5t1mneoqZg/s320/_20161014_182427.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Because these frames come fitted with glass, the top frame needs to be disassembled to fit a styrene sheet which i nicked out of a cheaper Ikea picture frame i had lying around. Styrene is <b>way</b> easier to cut holes in.<br />
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There's a bit of glue around the entire frame, so i applied heat and pressure to unstick it. The glue comes off completely cleanly, but be careful with pushing on the glass too hard as it could break! Safety first!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxovoQbegKekuhT7lOyvk1DBMd2VkfHYPCcgeHI2qoBghgpgcu9-7g71EbFzjqUVIobK0nu3WdmBWR9cTQq_kG4i5GD4QMTPieuZWq0UmPzUyIU3HL1IwdDSqpR0APlVJQrt1Kd29x8Q/s1600/_20161014_182223.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAxovoQbegKekuhT7lOyvk1DBMd2VkfHYPCcgeHI2qoBghgpgcu9-7g71EbFzjqUVIobK0nu3WdmBWR9cTQq_kG4i5GD4QMTPieuZWq0UmPzUyIU3HL1IwdDSqpR0APlVJQrt1Kd29x8Q/s320/_20161014_182223.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbKjm4DdXC3Eg57iFoPfQT5XBJa_4JLb3vi-VUyJHzDFUfwBnH2lHugp3ca0r-lBaXKRFAjzcmV0RhEiUYUvzc8z3qrb8lqs5NASE6ES642PADV_98Rk_sSNXLgSmwt9-PI7IrFm-Mx3w/s1600/_20161014_182115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbKjm4DdXC3Eg57iFoPfQT5XBJa_4JLb3vi-VUyJHzDFUfwBnH2lHugp3ca0r-lBaXKRFAjzcmV0RhEiUYUvzc8z3qrb8lqs5NASE6ES642PADV_98Rk_sSNXLgSmwt9-PI7IrFm-Mx3w/s320/_20161014_182115.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Styrene is quite brittle, and if a crack starts it can spread very easily. To cut the holes in the styrene sheet i first fitted it to the case with the frame, drilled small guide holes for each button, then applied a sanding ball. This sands and melts the plastic, and that melting prevents any cracks from spreading.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhne7paNIbxsLX_and4DFvi30uDyYglZBU7MxZgIwSpdDen02db-54qQUcylJVLCZvU2xwe-PQvkqUbIAssx4YCvDm5eERha4xZ2Bh9yaCHdl-bqYCHQmgZneU-Q3MX8OwTkftTLOQJ70/s1600/_20161014_184702.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhne7paNIbxsLX_and4DFvi30uDyYglZBU7MxZgIwSpdDen02db-54qQUcylJVLCZvU2xwe-PQvkqUbIAssx4YCvDm5eERha4xZ2Bh9yaCHdl-bqYCHQmgZneU-Q3MX8OwTkftTLOQJ70/s320/_20161014_184702.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can then finish the holes with a bit of sandpaper if they're not quite big enough, this stuff sands very readily.<br />
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An alternative cutting method would be to use a hot-wire. It should cut this stuff super quickly, and without risk of cracking (beyond drilling the starting holes, of course).<br />
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Here's what we end up with.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2roly-HVRVRmB2pa45d12QhH3SKnTMTK8eJkrm_QnoRziGBPh65xGzl3d8H4kvEz0uJnMQcLG4vv7mX3hF2rW3NAFv3TrTFtAUrjEfWf8Q5dN_3xR2WLT0d2CNDNVzpaiKugX5XJMQc/s1600/_20161014_182050.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhP2roly-HVRVRmB2pa45d12QhH3SKnTMTK8eJkrm_QnoRziGBPh65xGzl3d8H4kvEz0uJnMQcLG4vv7mX3hF2rW3NAFv3TrTFtAUrjEfWf8Q5dN_3xR2WLT0d2CNDNVzpaiKugX5XJMQc/s320/_20161014_182050.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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It looks a bit mucky, but that's because i've left the protective film on the styrene. It's best to leave that on as long as possible to prevent any chance of a scratch. I skipped across it with the drill a couple of times! :p<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnmheJc9IB_rWrcJtkLmK9rIHTxWzVKHsNUUN9UqS71KRmSEfJCCODc3AVd6lgZt3xGNb2C8TFCorPZoz4R6AU79Vw6pS3KAnsdpCOJoOTc-8kQYPGQtd5AqOcUAYE-TXGDaBtM1rpb8/s1600/_20161014_182004.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjnmheJc9IB_rWrcJtkLmK9rIHTxWzVKHsNUUN9UqS71KRmSEfJCCODc3AVd6lgZt3xGNb2C8TFCorPZoz4R6AU79Vw6pS3KAnsdpCOJoOTc-8kQYPGQtd5AqOcUAYE-TXGDaBtM1rpb8/s320/_20161014_182004.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once that task it complete it's time to apply a little paint. I really like the natural look of this plywood, so i masked the top and bottom faces, then shot the rest with white. I think white works best with the silver.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfVjz26JCZxB2RRvyqP_juaJ3KT6dxPow5qo5KULfy58XcXa0vp1sz9j_Uu29-PvHTPyKOtSCKZbLse67-cZbY8UTCf-onuSASAdueT-W9Au8gtr2TwHAlde7TPhoDvoX24ljuCaryUk/s1600/_20161014_181835.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiBfVjz26JCZxB2RRvyqP_juaJ3KT6dxPow5qo5KULfy58XcXa0vp1sz9j_Uu29-PvHTPyKOtSCKZbLse67-cZbY8UTCf-onuSASAdueT-W9Au8gtr2TwHAlde7TPhoDvoX24ljuCaryUk/s320/_20161014_181835.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgdlyd_JPtFMX3RkBmo45zritcydQH7-lvQ90WGS7Zl4jvEfi4ISsEVDbK6N-KlYJjkELLZeiK5UCInx9FpDr8oCTF1sWfZIdCfH-63E4Ei_F3_GiSaSPnHalqRHfjq3I31RiQdsSLzA/s1600/_20161014_181903.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvgdlyd_JPtFMX3RkBmo45zritcydQH7-lvQ90WGS7Zl4jvEfi4ISsEVDbK6N-KlYJjkELLZeiK5UCInx9FpDr8oCTF1sWfZIdCfH-63E4Ei_F3_GiSaSPnHalqRHfjq3I31RiQdsSLzA/s320/_20161014_181903.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Mso9EooljbHk_tqgx7KbJWlKMIo2u4Uxxzd65jxbGDSsiOhXy-3Wanf_POe_IfvIDD8fP609bsEn1QQLABIcowFv5yzuHDwFVdY7kAtFvNMbgGaR5dJv7THdKkV_PMZsnV653aJFbRY/s1600/_20161014_174910.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj8Mso9EooljbHk_tqgx7KbJWlKMIo2u4Uxxzd65jxbGDSsiOhXy-3Wanf_POe_IfvIDD8fP609bsEn1QQLABIcowFv5yzuHDwFVdY7kAtFvNMbgGaR5dJv7THdKkV_PMZsnV653aJFbRY/s320/_20161014_174910.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Ok, now that the case is finished it's time to install the hardware and crack on with the wiring. That's best left to <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-3.html">Part 3</a>.</div>
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-7787574599469551432017-05-27T06:08:00.000-07:002017-05-29T00:58:55.032-07:00Gear VR Blaster - Part 1Despite it being quite rudimentary by modern standards, the new Gear VR motion controller adds a lot of capability as a orientation-tracked pointing device. It's particularly well suited to light-gun games, an archaic genre of game which has cutting-edge hardware to thank for its resurgence.<br />
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So why not go the whole hog, and put the controller inside a gun?</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7ofzuZuYxCRy5AzrxDjU7s0fqIfMjuBcRWiMgV0tIx_qFtUFpUKtnYBuCVGUGxVk5z_MeWZ_B4mOS1K72KImSC3g8QacopKyKxnfj679A_yVd9Xvmdo5lpi435LZAtewANqeZFCH-vs/s1600/20170527_152255.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEil7ofzuZuYxCRy5AzrxDjU7s0fqIfMjuBcRWiMgV0tIx_qFtUFpUKtnYBuCVGUGxVk5z_MeWZ_B4mOS1K72KImSC3g8QacopKyKxnfj679A_yVd9Xvmdo5lpi435LZAtewANqeZFCH-vs/s320/20170527_152255.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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I know that's a bit fugly, but it's just a rushed prototype made out of cardboard to adjust the touch-pad placement, it'll be receiving a timber structure to house the electronics further on, and a blast of paint to tidy up the look.</div>
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So step one is to disassemble the Gear VR controller.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbE44Zov-Dx7NTKXNzWHXaMJgTe19wjTeXGucH27T9Yj3AuC9QfLgR7c1t1OroYeYFL_oi_lGwd5AZaZqKUoAwAlqgZSLRxux9T9LMsFXrTdzouaXGL3SFwljGwMWnzvS9IgBgTc6pvBI/s1600/20170527_150410.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbE44Zov-Dx7NTKXNzWHXaMJgTe19wjTeXGucH27T9Yj3AuC9QfLgR7c1t1OroYeYFL_oi_lGwd5AZaZqKUoAwAlqgZSLRxux9T9LMsFXrTdzouaXGL3SFwljGwMWnzvS9IgBgTc6pvBI/s320/20170527_150410.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once the four small Philips head screws are undone in the battery compartment, it's just a case of prying the case clips off with a small flat-head. The PCB is also fixed with small clips, and the wire traces for the touch-pad and trigger button are stuck down with double-sided LCD tape. It's a cinch.</div>
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My donor gun was a Nerf Maverick I've had kicking around the garage for a couple of years.</div>
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Now just to remove the unnecessary parts, to make room for some buttons. I'm retaining the slide mechanism on the top to be used as the home button. Just slide it back and hold to re-centre the controller in-game!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFPMC6M3TN33yqeBjqb4GrB4kBrV8L3GqTz4shICjSVeB73JhoUdGkCvreKKll1v1AZZNFS_N_Yimrz_YnkLIGOH7G1i3gZGRFVhAoecGOcnQbPNYhxbVrcm8ttbJojPS3kmHNCtHXYo/s1600/20170527_151233.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfFPMC6M3TN33yqeBjqb4GrB4kBrV8L3GqTz4shICjSVeB73JhoUdGkCvreKKll1v1AZZNFS_N_Yimrz_YnkLIGOH7G1i3gZGRFVhAoecGOcnQbPNYhxbVrcm8ttbJojPS3kmHNCtHXYo/s320/20170527_151233.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Lots of room for the buttons. One in the trigger, one in the side, and one in the black button which was previously used to release the barrel for reloading.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr82kbLgOxhn5AI8PiDyIAWB1m-RkSGpQhOfGykTSVTvGjMNth_TSXVQ135WXS7IQrNx-S25JOV3cQfPHeITNh_wysRQ0z4_Fk95uGZWhq6Hb6FvNebRuP1sarQrX__mQkOWiXpJ6cJGk/s1600/20170527_151324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhr82kbLgOxhn5AI8PiDyIAWB1m-RkSGpQhOfGykTSVTvGjMNth_TSXVQ135WXS7IQrNx-S25JOV3cQfPHeITNh_wysRQ0z4_Fk95uGZWhq6Hb6FvNebRuP1sarQrX__mQkOWiXpJ6cJGk/s320/20170527_151324.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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A little bit of carving, some inserts epoxied in, and it'll all fit like a glove!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqCwdofb7N4YnXpbyzHuAK6Alfv5G4fDY7UJXglBiFvgZnmSSHw7oqOhyl3FP3mZFz7bcYkKBi4TLUYEsWV_nCty-eLjpDbHu2EG1vwaNCiuduUEX6gT5cAimtYU6Fym_VZYtqvyJvYQ/s1600/20170527_151537.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGqCwdofb7N4YnXpbyzHuAK6Alfv5G4fDY7UJXglBiFvgZnmSSHw7oqOhyl3FP3mZFz7bcYkKBi4TLUYEsWV_nCty-eLjpDbHu2EG1vwaNCiuduUEX6gT5cAimtYU6Fym_VZYtqvyJvYQ/s320/20170527_151537.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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The PCB and battery pack will be mounted in the void left by removing the barrel. I'm not sure if all of the accelerometers are on the flex cable with the buttons (leftmost portion of the flex cable at the top), so i'll also mount the pcb horizontally to maintain orientation in-game. The cavity is juuust wide enough.</div>
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The touch pad will be mounted on the left face of the barrel area, within easy reach using a two-handed grip.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V38FO9elPo0kMBXRX33QCwtCUvv_c51tFXp4wWd6SoqKGFSiv0mGtzJoxblhaM3QWuoJzZG9gECbDB6hiUMSOLkG3KGNd5eVdwYDfr8sGPMfRjYWfDwTw7j-_ZDv3bcQINREMxplMmU/s1600/20170527_152318.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1V38FO9elPo0kMBXRX33QCwtCUvv_c51tFXp4wWd6SoqKGFSiv0mGtzJoxblhaM3QWuoJzZG9gECbDB6hiUMSOLkG3KGNd5eVdwYDfr8sGPMfRjYWfDwTw7j-_ZDv3bcQINREMxplMmU/s320/20170527_152318.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<iframe width="320" height="266" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ZPfRp7yJW4/0.jpg" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/_ZPfRp7yJW4?feature=player_embedded" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe></div>
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Feels good, now to make it more permanent in Part 2!</div>
Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-66845439065497314172017-05-25T00:15:00.002-07:002017-05-27T07:54:52.125-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick - Mini Edition Part 1<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It has been a long time coming, but here's the text-based rundown on how to build the Ikea Arcade Stick from a single piece of 7mm ply. If you'd rather watch the in-depth video walkthrough, head <a href="https://youtu.be/riLeWV70kXk" target="_blank">here</a>!</div>
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Ok, for everyone else, you'll need a sheet of ply, PVA glue, two Stromby picture frames, and the clear plastic sheet out of a cheaper Ikea frame (try the damaged goods section!). We'll be using the 30x20cm version here, but the 40x30 makes a <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/ikea-arcade-stick-v2-shiny-shiny.html" target="_blank">great TE2-sized stick</a>! I used spade bits to cut the button holes, in 24mm and 30mm, a table saw for all of the grunt work, and a regular hand saw for a fiddly bit.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUvrBIUXvS-Iq0iOl8Yy-baWQ6_jHANAn57gjksxsix3imhpGFlwsnTuBsT2Ba4fr1KlxyauK5hF6qlUOyWKOW00ArRLim_TGcly4qQ69Xkhudt4uY2Y-KFqL4-97HN0t1wmkoUyys9U/s1600/_20161011_212854.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDUvrBIUXvS-Iq0iOl8Yy-baWQ6_jHANAn57gjksxsix3imhpGFlwsnTuBsT2Ba4fr1KlxyauK5hF6qlUOyWKOW00ArRLim_TGcly4qQ69Xkhudt4uY2Y-KFqL4-97HN0t1wmkoUyys9U/s320/_20161011_212854.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<a name='more'></a>Because i had a failed prototype lying around, i decided to cut that down to use for the top plate, which is why it's all pre-drilled. Choose a suitable button layout from <a href="http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="_blank">slagcoin.com</a>, then make sure to fit it inside the walls of the stick.<br />
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The outside of walls need to be inset by at least 25mm to allow for the spring clips, which hold the frames on, to fit. If you want to add a wiimote holder as i'm doing, you need to allow for 30mm of clearance on that side. Be sure to also allow for the 7mm thickness of the plywood. I've drawn lines marking the inside of the walls.<br />
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So for this particular build, these are the pieces required:<br />
<ul>
<li>2x 300x200mm - For the top and bottom plates</li>
<li>2x 236x50mm - The front and back "long" walls. This is 20mm inset on one side, 30 on the other, and another 14mm for the thickness of the short walls which overlap.</li>
<li>2x 140x50mm - The short side walls. The wall opposite the wiimote has three 24mm holes drilled in it to allow for the system buttons. Do this before mounting to make things easier!</li>
<li>2x 140x30mm - Wiimote spacers, because otherwise the power button will be blocked by the frame.</li>
<li>6x Triangles - These will be the gussets which allow us to locate the walls better, and will counter any bowing of the plywood.</li>
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First we lay down the gussets and let it cure. Be sure to make yours small enough to avoid interfering with the buttons.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVm8Q_YDMaga3XkNX4jh5BSLtdGfMebDlnwcaccwUnmdB1_Y9663ywlVeZhyBp5KBRIW-CFb-kcS9DgViwlK9jm3fP7ZqxuMZTDB5hlAyjff_F_7ISOQV72afpIrB-2Vy9J3boV3eOPzE/s1600/_20161011_220932.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiVm8Q_YDMaga3XkNX4jh5BSLtdGfMebDlnwcaccwUnmdB1_Y9663ywlVeZhyBp5KBRIW-CFb-kcS9DgViwlK9jm3fP7ZqxuMZTDB5hlAyjff_F_7ISOQV72afpIrB-2Vy9J3boV3eOPzE/s320/_20161011_220932.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next the walls go on. I like to use loads of these quick-grip clamps. Use a square off-cut to check that the walls are gluing in nice and squarely, and adjust the clamps back and forth to suit.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyfcLd9kNcxfHjMw27vveA7GQ616srDDLMGmNU-w2O4skf3JuVH17tTuKB_hWbQbY8sNgPlbbWbsbv7B7S_nNrEonN6S2ZHYjQ6RaciUEZpNepKh1enEdtfhNmAzkCKxEIyJLhushujc/s1600/_20161013_221140.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFyfcLd9kNcxfHjMw27vveA7GQ616srDDLMGmNU-w2O4skf3JuVH17tTuKB_hWbQbY8sNgPlbbWbsbv7B7S_nNrEonN6S2ZHYjQ6RaciUEZpNepKh1enEdtfhNmAzkCKxEIyJLhushujc/s320/_20161013_221140.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Next is the upper Wiimote spacer.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPp9IdVGOzscQ3nyHcLwyKCXB1AT-ivBmw6yKeihyphenhyphenT20S-p83dhOEO4irWhGpkuU4rqd67R39YyO_0JYe1FcNZY41oRSEPqnPIoIGF_4NonqlP58RvLx879EXFgjZrodxWaaeTrIo0RLo/s1600/_20161014_183955.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPp9IdVGOzscQ3nyHcLwyKCXB1AT-ivBmw6yKeihyphenhyphenT20S-p83dhOEO4irWhGpkuU4rqd67R39YyO_0JYe1FcNZY41oRSEPqnPIoIGF_4NonqlP58RvLx879EXFgjZrodxWaaeTrIo0RLo/s320/_20161014_183955.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Top done!<br />
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Now we see what's become of the bottom panel! I've taken the centre out of it, separating it into two "L" shapes for ease of cutting. The outer size is the exact same 30x20 of the upper, but i've measured in to the inner wall of the stick, plus a few mm extra for luck, and cut along that line. This way we'll be able to glue it down onto the "tops" of the walls.<br />
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When cutting the pieces apart, i also took an extra gap out of the top cut, to allow for the wire to pass through. That's confusing, but you'll see what i mean in a second.<br />
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First we glue the lower Wiimote spacer on, as this helps with locating the piece.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIJYcOb3P1sZ7znXG2pL4v6LY8-cnrikG8kaiTBokR8nQqHsJRZyil6W6Khz15dwmDGlu_7IteTtPwadwpKP42u3jVFsr66h1il6rOuHDhqpdFGlUo4qV7Vp3iugFzM9JoBqdBXJZKAQY/s1600/_20161014_184021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIJYcOb3P1sZ7znXG2pL4v6LY8-cnrikG8kaiTBokR8nQqHsJRZyil6W6Khz15dwmDGlu_7IteTtPwadwpKP42u3jVFsr66h1il6rOuHDhqpdFGlUo4qV7Vp3iugFzM9JoBqdBXJZKAQY/s320/_20161014_184021.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Flip it and glue it. You can see the slight overhang i allowed for around the inner edge.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBAVwbQ0N7dxTjUYEmU3Hkrj12AF8o27m8dK6CGugtiIaL6HOQlfVAIKsn4SR0Y9ZsUV44N-Q4zybEx0PxCDau0E6SN8cbMUJquk4lmITd7JZ4onrImNKTqCn4y7Rd2W7JJ4kHCCQFdM/s1600/_20161014_182603.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1201" data-original-width="1600" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWBAVwbQ0N7dxTjUYEmU3Hkrj12AF8o27m8dK6CGugtiIaL6HOQlfVAIKsn4SR0Y9ZsUV44N-Q4zybEx0PxCDau0E6SN8cbMUJquk4lmITd7JZ4onrImNKTqCn4y7Rd2W7JJ4kHCCQFdM/s320/_20161014_182603.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The second piece can go on next, butted up against the first. The gap for the wire is also evident at the bottom.<br />
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If you're making a USB-connected stick you might want to make the cut in the middle of the top side. The Wiimote wire works best from the back corner.<br />
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And we're done with the woodworking part of the project!<br />
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Now we just need a lick of paint, some hardware, and those Stromby frames. That's in <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2017/05/ikea-arcade-stick-mini-edition-part-2.html">Part 2</a>!</div>
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-30677379395182001792017-05-24T05:35:00.000-07:002017-05-24T05:40:56.587-07:00My Shoes of Choose - The Dunlop Volley is back, minus the Dunlop!Despite spending far too much money on English leather over the years, when it comes to sportswear my taste in shoes is almost inconceivably simple. For fifteeen years the Dunlop Volley Classic has stood tall as my shoe of choice for everything from parkour to squash, fishing to running. I'd buy this very specific type of Volley in batches of several pairs from Payless Shoes, and replenish them annually.<br />
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Then one day, without warning, the supply dried up! Lesser Volley Internationals could be purchased from places like Kmart, but their soft sole would wear out in under a week, and the heavy, jelly feel was useless.<br />
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They also looked incredibly stupid with their smooth, bulgy toe cap.<br />
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But a short while ago the Volley brand popped back up as its own concern, having ditched Dunlop under new ownership. And aside from sole colour, the new Classic is remarkably faithful to the original!<br />
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Now for a rundown of why i believe that this specific Volley is still the best parkour shoe available in Australia:<br />
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<li>It has a very roomy toe box, minimal padding, and very little heel rise. This makes it a phenomenal running shoe for developing strong feet, yet it's not so sensitive as to feel like running barefoot.</li>
<li>The chevron sole has fantastic grip in the wet and dry when new. Once the sole is worn down across the ball of the foot, the flexibility and touch sensitivity becomes amazing at the sacrifice of wet grip.</li>
<li>The shoe has enough structure to hold and protect your foot well. The laces stop your foot from moving around as they would in something like a Feiyue.</li>
<li>The foam-filled band around the top of the shoe, and the puffy tongue, do a decent job of protecting the ankle against things like railings.</li>
<li>Despite costing a lot more than the old Dunlops (they've gone from $30 to $55), they're still good value. You get a lot more durability than from a Feiyue, yet don't have to be precious with them as you would with a Nike or Merrell. It's a happy medium.</li>
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Other shoes are better at specific jobs, but i haven't found anything yet which does as much, so well, for so little money.</div>
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And the black option looks great with the red accents now!<br />
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You've just gotta be a bit more careful with leaving marks on walls over the old natural rubber soles.Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-55719457547898387422016-10-14T04:50:00.003-07:002016-10-14T21:25:27.029-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick - Mini Edition Teaser!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
I've had a few requests to compile a proper step-by-step build of one of my sticks, as the previous posts have all been iterative updates. Here's a quick rundown of what's gone on so far...</div>
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<a name='more'></a>For the example build i decided to start from one of my old failed prototypes, and turn it into a mini stick using the smaller 30x21cm Stromby frames.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiLPxDzhFBzIQ7S3LwRmQN9yz3R2Pvf22lEHVR4Kith5QZm-tmzFFmoWMFNjElNjomlTzL1EbnxnfYcM-0qTQd8_BKKnBRCriDYk2hvpYx-X_cb30HixH_fbB5eLkixIxirdJYa5G7Qc/s1600/_20161006_184135.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMiLPxDzhFBzIQ7S3LwRmQN9yz3R2Pvf22lEHVR4Kith5QZm-tmzFFmoWMFNjElNjomlTzL1EbnxnfYcM-0qTQd8_BKKnBRCriDYk2hvpYx-X_cb30HixH_fbB5eLkixIxirdJYa5G7Qc/s320/_20161006_184135.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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This top panel was cut down to suit the smaller format using my table saw, saving time and timber, and getting to a good starting point.<br />
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I then built up the rest of the kit required for the top half. Four walls, two wiimote spacers, and some little ply triangles. This time there's no oak, it's all from that one sheet of ply (as i've promised previously).<br />
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And with all the parts assembled! Don't worry, i'll go into more depth in the build, but the triangles are glued down to reinforce the wall joints and prevent warping of the longer runs of ply.<br />
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My last version of this stick had the bottom panel screwed on to allow the wiimote cable to be removed without desoldering it. In this version i've cut a channel in the bottom panel and glued the whole thing down. Fewer screws, stiffer case design. It's also much easier to cut the hole as the panel is built from two "L" pieces!<br />
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With the Wimote test fitted, under the aluminium top frame. This one has a different colour scheme for variety.<br />
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And with a little white paint thrown at it. Now it just needs the hardware installed and the bottom frame.<br />
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The big walkthrough post will cover the specifics like how to cut the holes in the styrene without cracking it, how to remove the bonded glass from the frames, and how to cut ply straight and square. with some videos covering the tricky bits. Coming soon!<br />
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<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-80974807863688819972016-10-05T03:05:00.000-07:002016-10-14T21:33:24.281-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick V2 - Shiny Shiny!<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/ikea-arcade-stick-v2-part-two.html">Part Two</a>.</i><br />
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When it comes to art, I am the most indecisive human alive. This is why I've never had a tattoo, despite spending the best part of a decade drunk.<br />
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So the styrene sheet goes down over the naked plywood for now. It will protect the surface while I decide what to do, and it still looks nice enough.<br />
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Drilling styrene isn't easy, as it's a very brittle plastic, but it sands very well! So to make the holes i first started with a very small drill bit (like 4mm) and light pressure. Some cracking is to be expected, but it's containable.<br />
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Once that's done, a sanding ball (which looks like the world's roughest chupa-chup, on a drill bit) was applied to the hole with light pressure at a high rpm, which starts to sand/melt the plastic. The melting stops the cracks from growing, and once the hole is nearly to size it's time to cool it off, slow it down, and just sand the edges smooth.<br />
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Repeat eight times, and voila!<br />
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I think this design is very close to meeting my goals of being easy to build, affordable, and capable of rivalling the finish quality of a retail stick. I'll make a build video next, for anyone who wants the full step-by-step instructions. :)<br />
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All that's left now is to add a Brook UFB to make it work across all of the modern consoles and PC (it's in the mail!).<br />
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If you're wondering what this thing weighs:<br />
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It's about 700g lighter than a TE2+, but it's hardly going to blow away!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-56410331055913414892016-10-03T02:20:00.002-07:002016-10-07T05:56:10.335-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick V2 - Part Two<i>Continued from <span id="goog_532719067"></span><a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/08/ikea-stick-mk2-stromby-twins.html" target="_blank">Part One</a><span id="goog_532719068"></span>.</i><br />
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Much has happened since last we spoke! My new hardware order from Arcade Shock took a little longer than anticipated, but work was swiftly resumed on the other side!<br />
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The mid section of the case was blown over with some black spray paint, to blend it in with the frame, along with one side of the lower plate, which i decided to cut a hole in (roughly!) to help accessibility. Then the hardware was installed.</div>
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My cheap ebay Classic Controller Pro PCB is mounted as per the Seimitsu LS-32 joystick, with small countersunk bolts screwed in from the top-side. You can find more about the wiring setup in <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/wii-u-fight-stick-part-3.html" target="_blank">Part 3</a> of my Lucario stick build.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89n_zGVEezg2Bls9zAu2vvBRUi9tUSB_vROgulvLr3Wmtjia0cDcSV2LOitXrHcnYR16ytazWLo2OuyIUiGIg4Q6qVOtS7-nQVdYc-o6e4j-OY0UqoRtLyTF4_ok0cF-HI8e26YhEVyQ/s1600/_20161003_183418.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg89n_zGVEezg2Bls9zAu2vvBRUi9tUSB_vROgulvLr3Wmtjia0cDcSV2LOitXrHcnYR16ytazWLo2OuyIUiGIg4Q6qVOtS7-nQVdYc-o6e4j-OY0UqoRtLyTF4_ok0cF-HI8e26YhEVyQ/s320/_20161003_183418.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Once everything was installed, i ran the wiimote cable through a groove cut in the "wall" panel previously, then fixed the bottom panel with 6x countersunk screws to trap the cable. This will allow tooless access to the hardware via the bottom frame, as per here:<br />
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Once the guts were installed, the art layers go on, before the Stromby frames attach using the supplied spring-steel clips. I use two of the triangular "corner" clips at the end with the buttons per frame, and two of the "c-shaped" clips per frame at the wiimote end. This creates a rock solid feeling stick with double-sided art!<br />
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The springy frame clips are also used to retain the Wiimote, which is just pressed into the side of the case to install. Removal is as easy as getting a finger behind it and pulling it out!<br />
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At this stage i still need to install the upper clear sheet and both art layers, but functionally and aesthetically this is my favourite stick yet! It's rock solid, the touch-points feel great, and it's a breeze to use. If you want a great arcade stick on the cheap it's very, very hard to beat this!<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxcfKVyvAL0pQRXJzrVDe_-gDUcUB-7x_Xyw-HZTk7J7NXZXQEVP7FE61qaqgqExK0wh6G6WYFrunLER_gLW13PfUhGvwYV-NuYGl23Nn0Pgb7Zb4FPw1jmKmQVRAce0fLd8qna7btIE/s1600/_20161003_161228.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="239" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQxcfKVyvAL0pQRXJzrVDe_-gDUcUB-7x_Xyw-HZTk7J7NXZXQEVP7FE61qaqgqExK0wh6G6WYFrunLER_gLW13PfUhGvwYV-NuYGl23Nn0Pgb7Zb4FPw1jmKmQVRAce0fLd8qna7btIE/s320/_20161003_161228.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Stay tuned for the <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/ikea-arcade-stick-v2-shiny-shiny.html">finale</a>.</div>
Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-57474848271502831362016-09-07T03:31:00.000-07:002019-11-20T01:22:14.266-08:00Prototyping - Wii U wheel with pedals and shifterTo make my <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/04/prototyping-wii-u-zapper.html" target="_blank">Wii U Zapper</a> work from the Wii U Gamepad, i had to create an interface board to connect the PCB to my external switches. This modularity allowed me to hook the gamepad up to just about anything, and one of the first ideas i had was to take on the arcade version of Mario Kart.<br />
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The accelerometer-based steering in Mario Kart Wii was incredibly limited due to both the accuracy of the sensor array, and the lack of a fixed steering axis. The Gamepad's gyroscope greatly improves the former, and fixing it to my Logitech G25 hub has resulted in steering accuracy rivalling that of the analogue stick. The self-centring force is also much appreciated, and i used the wheel configuration software to soft-limit the rotation to 270 degrees.<br />
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The wheel was first attached using a spare shoelace, as i wasn't sure if it would work all that well, and didn't want to waste time prototyping the control scheme. As a temporary anchor it worked well enough, and future iterations would utilise the gamepad's native screw-clamp attachment points on the back.<br />
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Instead of using the potentiometers of my pedal box, i decided to fit these rugged mushroom switches. Their actuation force is slightly softer than that of the pedals, they're built to take a beating, and there's no room for error. All three pedals are used, with the clutch being used as "jump" to initiate drifts (somewhat mimicking the real drifting technique known as "clutch-popping").<br />
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The shifter is used as a "sling-shot" for items. To launch items forwards you pull the stick back, holding it to keep the shell/banana behind you, then letting go to send it forwards. To drop a banana or fire a shell backwards you hold the stick forwards, then release to fire. It's a far more visceral, intuitive system than the default gamepad controls.</div>
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It's a lot of fun, and gets crazy in 200cc mode; because you have to hold the clutch to drift, braking mid-corner requires you to reverse heel-toe!<br />
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Like this? See more of my <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Design">prototype designs</a>!</div>
Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-13426924262028212212016-08-30T00:10:00.000-07:002016-08-30T00:10:55.516-07:00Pebble Pay - Passive, waterproof, NFC banking.<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Several years ago my bank started rolling out a NFC payment system, which included a great phone app for Android phones. If you had an iPhone however, you were out of luck as they didn't carry the requisite hardware at the time.</div>
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So the bank released these two dollar, tokenised NFC "Pay tags" to stick to the back of the phone. I had a compatible android device, but these tags were just the best thing ever. I <i>immediately</i> put one on my watch!<br />
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<a name='more'></a>Paying with a passive tag on my watch was unbelievably convenient. There was no fumbling for my phone or wallet, i could pay with both hands holding ice-cream (that's how i usually do my shopping). And it was incredibly hard to steal, it didn't carry actual card data, and it was entirely waterproof!<br />
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I used to walk straight out of the surf wearing that watch, and straight into a cold beer. No "hiding the wallet in the towel" dance with danger, no hiking back to the car to retrieve money. It just worked.<br />
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When i received my Pebble Time, the token migrated to that. Despite Apple Pay being a year away from deployment in Australia, people were confusing the white Time for an Apple Watch constantly.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGlSxjBD4obb-BEQwfB8R8a5c7qJ3qkMwigylZ8cnjJQT1JCEROke5CG8YoyuNAuB9W18KF4UjCSVf72RRdCJ8kv6TSpeAL7LWK2z7bpdcQkNxWn4eFC9rbxMU2LhjnACYP2u6cVereo/s1600/GOPR0022_2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTGlSxjBD4obb-BEQwfB8R8a5c7qJ3qkMwigylZ8cnjJQT1JCEROke5CG8YoyuNAuB9W18KF4UjCSVf72RRdCJ8kv6TSpeAL7LWK2z7bpdcQkNxWn4eFC9rbxMU2LhjnACYP2u6cVereo/s320/GOPR0022_2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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To make things more streamlined, and to get the token to fit within the narrower strap of the Time Round, i decided to de-bulk it by stripping the electronics out. A few hours in acetone did the trick.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DpAzllYTDI0/Vwh7VL7j5-I/AAAAAAAAIlg/yrpj8OWjSeImQyMSh9vSTbBivZ1oC9_7g/s1600/DSC_0428.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DpAzllYTDI0/Vwh7VL7j5-I/AAAAAAAAIlg/yrpj8OWjSeImQyMSh9vSTbBivZ1oC9_7g/s320/DSC_0428.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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I then rearranged the antennae a little, before sealing everything inside a business card lamination pouch to re-waterproof it. With the pouch trimmed down, it's now significantly smaller, more flexible, and comfortably fits within the leather layers of my PTS and PTR straps.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" class="YOUTUBE-iframe-video" data-thumbnail-src="https://i.ytimg.com/vi/6tOCW43LGD4/0.jpg" frameborder="0" height="266" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/6tOCW43LGD4?feature=player_embedded" width="320"></iframe></div>
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Magic!<br />
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Like this? See more of my <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/search/label/Pebble" target="_blank">Pebble mods</a>!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-28219075267047309152016-08-29T02:12:00.000-07:002016-08-29T02:30:25.334-07:00New 3DS C-Stick Mod - The only way to play Monster Hunter!Back in the PSP days i wasn't much of a fan of the Monster Hunter series. A friend showed it to me, projecting that almost overpoweringly emphatic gusto any seasoned player does to potential new teammates, but i couldn't get my head around the contorted control scheme required (affectionately referred to as "the claw" by people who actually LIKED it!).<br />
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Now that i finally "get it", having spent well over a thousand hours on the series since the release of Tri, it's almost serendipitous that the solution to the New 3DS's slippery control scheme comes straight off of the front of that stalwart PSP.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitH8pyCOoo4nnv1FQMq1v5IKLIW85P9zFJI7VqmbRllTVJsHCAxWfOLE3mX-Jrb1wh47_P_8kqWQgDY0rSUwQ-QglgbBfvRpYCCDKP-KCynmJ3eOaLh2cHYUqCHNjs06idAyKly_C3L5c/s1600/_20160829_182210.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitH8pyCOoo4nnv1FQMq1v5IKLIW85P9zFJI7VqmbRllTVJsHCAxWfOLE3mX-Jrb1wh47_P_8kqWQgDY0rSUwQ-QglgbBfvRpYCCDKP-KCynmJ3eOaLh2cHYUqCHNjs06idAyKly_C3L5c/s320/_20160829_182210.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a name='more'></a>The problem with the New 3DS is that the C-Stick becomes slippery with use as the silicone attracts oil, making it nearly impossible to adjust the camera vertically. In Monster Hunter Generations, my current obsession, i'll get half way into a big fight, lose any control to look down, and have to run away to wipe the stick. Awful!<br />
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Being old enough to remember using old IBM Thinkpads with their very similar controller, i set out on the internet to look for replacement "nub covers". Those old IBM's got around this very problem by impregnating the rubber with a rough, glass-paper like material. I can't believe Nintendo didn't leverage that twenty years of experience!<br />
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<a href="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6a/Thinkpad_trackpoint_caps.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/6/6a/Thinkpad_trackpoint_caps.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Wondering if the square connector was the same size, i stumbled across a <a href="https://www.reddit.com/r/3DS/comments/44spty/i_replaced_my_cstick_with_a_psp_analog_stick/" target="_blank">Redditor</a> who found an even more interestingly compatible part, the PSP-1000 Analogue Cap! It was too perfect, i instantly bought a pack of four on eBay, for a dollar, WITH SHIPPING!<br />
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The process is simple enough; Remove the old rubber cap, and click on the PSP cap. Since i have a bunch of spare OG C-stick caps, i just pulled it out of the console, tearing the silicone anchors. The alternative requires opening the console, and i'm saving that for a more major operation later.<br />
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Once out you'll see a square peg which looks very similar to the one in the PSP or a Thinkpad (i'm pretty sure it's a perfect fit, too). If you really wanted to reverse this operation, trimming the ears off will let you push the original cap back on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFh4Ak_XDhG0sdVB6054MFv_VdSsvq3PWso2MqtGbnvVEsB3Pkycfg_AW4B5vxm6Qqqp3thpb5cVYXG8_togB-R3JbWDERfsZ9lhFZtRVvWuZInC0rlhww1idVVf39TSLAZ3ElWCiqPTc/s1600/_20160829_182402.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFh4Ak_XDhG0sdVB6054MFv_VdSsvq3PWso2MqtGbnvVEsB3Pkycfg_AW4B5vxm6Qqqp3thpb5cVYXG8_togB-R3JbWDERfsZ9lhFZtRVvWuZInC0rlhww1idVVf39TSLAZ3ElWCiqPTc/s320/_20160829_182402.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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You can get these PSP-1000 caps in a few colours, but i thought white would be the best fit with my coloured buttons. The shipping took an age, but you get what you pay for. Just line it up and press it on.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkE3Uv_7SvfGUr8yiGeOhKJE8ojZ57AqR8zp9btV0YUffSFuLfp4RMDME4jJigNhbqq1C7HFIBcXg_Zza2P8NfDu8aL1ukyEuN-zm4hc0WFyNCH5Y_IAHkhgkB_0K6bOW3zqMxnNLaPho/s1600/_20160829_182745.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhkE3Uv_7SvfGUr8yiGeOhKJE8ojZ57AqR8zp9btV0YUffSFuLfp4RMDME4jJigNhbqq1C7HFIBcXg_Zza2P8NfDu8aL1ukyEuN-zm4hc0WFyNCH5Y_IAHkhgkB_0K6bOW3zqMxnNLaPho/s320/_20160829_182745.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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And done! It almost looks "too flush" to work, but it's actually FAR more sensitive than the original. You only need to use slight force, it works properly in all directions, and it will never slip mid-battle. If you're playing Monster Hunter on a New 3DS, you absolutely NEED to do this mod!<br />
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Full credit goes to Reddit user "<a href="https://www.reddit.com/user/spentthedayonreddit" target="_blank">Spentthedayonreddit</a>" for working out that compatibility!<br />
<br />Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-183790507067043622016-08-06T23:57:00.000-07:002016-10-07T05:44:56.460-07:00Ikea Arcade Stick V2 - The Stromby TwinsThe <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/07/fighting-frame-part-one.html" target="_blank">Ribba stick</a> is finished, and it's been getting loads of play time, but I've already had some new ideas kicking around my head.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZarFFmS2IPQrtVUPmvetXyoI8cHEvysueJy4r5KX6WAqptxcm5RMwCW4uNXsh694VkbZcXd7erhUsiwT0yV4T0Wc5D3wythoxNVqcA-Iu7f9AdpwRfH5Kkx2aH4W6Hk1FvL_dqOJFB60/s1600/_20160731_111939.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjZarFFmS2IPQrtVUPmvetXyoI8cHEvysueJy4r5KX6WAqptxcm5RMwCW4uNXsh694VkbZcXd7erhUsiwT0yV4T0Wc5D3wythoxNVqcA-Iu7f9AdpwRfH5Kkx2aH4W6Hk1FvL_dqOJFB60/s320/_20160731_111939.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The Ribba's drawback is the thickness of the lip around the outside. By switching to a 40x30cm Stromby frame, the lip is almost eliminated and the edge material is traded for more durable aluminium.<br />
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To allow for an art layer on the bottom and to decrease finishing work significantly, a second frame is installed, turning the design into a frame sandwich.<br />
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As before, from a sheet of 7mm thick plywood:<br />
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<ul>
<li>2x panels are cut to the size of the backing card, 400x300mm. </li>
<li>2x long walls, which are inset by 30mm on one side (for the wiimote), and 15mm on the other (for the recessed buttons). They're 341x50mm.</li>
<li>2x short walls are 240mmx50mm</li>
<li>For the corner gussets i've used more of my 18x18 scrap oak, but triangles of plywood would suffice if you wanted to keep it all from the same sheet.</li>
<li>2x 180mmx30mm lengths are used as spacers for the wiimote, to keep the buttons from being blocked by the frames.</li>
<li>2x 20x30mm pieces are installed on the ends of the upper spacer to prevent the wiimote from sliding fore/aft. Make sure the length of the wiimote can fit between them!</li>
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Once you have that cut, you need to drill the holes. 3x 24mm holes go in the side panel opposite the wiimote, while 1x 24mm and 8x 30mm holes are drilled into the top plate. Try printing some layouts from <a href="http://slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html" target="_blank">Slagcoin</a>, and see which fits you best.</div>
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With a bit of PVA and a few clamps, you end up with something like this after a couple of hours.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjfsUTRBK3dy3loDwPHaXsTutuXSsOJluqLmXIq2UxIhGcuBt6B315UBwvw3KMiixmRkJoQOMN36lHh4huki-RhAKzGO_wFmHspHuF4vLb9keIRMxdi4qqyKT9pX2ywaw7swjfqu6uec/s1600/DSC_0171.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="180" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAjfsUTRBK3dy3loDwPHaXsTutuXSsOJluqLmXIq2UxIhGcuBt6B315UBwvw3KMiixmRkJoQOMN36lHh4huki-RhAKzGO_wFmHspHuF4vLb9keIRMxdi4qqyKT9pX2ywaw7swjfqu6uec/s320/DSC_0171.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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My preferred layout is a heavily rotated version of the Sega Player 2 (as found on Slagcoin). This allows for a much straighter wrist position than the typical "keyboard straight" layouts provide.</div>
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The wiimote is in a similar setup to previous builds, held in by the little "speed bumps". This still allows clearance for the IR camera which is required to navigate the wii mode menus.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6E56icR5u75FDD0YDWAlmQHAF-JAteKv9UYSnjIiOo3ykb3cQb_hN9WCNgSP1Fy8yQAj-ZgjomIonQeNyIi6MPW0DUTYSXpXcZ3vbsVPP4AmEQXgg04X7ek9Gr204ZCKKyra_oRhuTxE/s1600/_20160807_135750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg6E56icR5u75FDD0YDWAlmQHAF-JAteKv9UYSnjIiOo3ykb3cQb_hN9WCNgSP1Fy8yQAj-ZgjomIonQeNyIi6MPW0DUTYSXpXcZ3vbsVPP4AmEQXgg04X7ek9Gr204ZCKKyra_oRhuTxE/s320/_20160807_135750.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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The system buttons are recessed as before, but are much shallower at 15mm. It's a function of the thinner frame material.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIq60uJ7K5eqlLPrdvT_KerVJn2KJmM-j-xsdqTjMfc2IpJsFzsq7ggGiX03dKLzgvMTYYJWAgiBi3vYbiQEbQeNYmOJ4EWQm5UdFhUPchdlwvYerpeUBNCfxFNSlVr-Ok2Yhl1AFvIKc/s1600/_20160807_155713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjIq60uJ7K5eqlLPrdvT_KerVJn2KJmM-j-xsdqTjMfc2IpJsFzsq7ggGiX03dKLzgvMTYYJWAgiBi3vYbiQEbQeNYmOJ4EWQm5UdFhUPchdlwvYerpeUBNCfxFNSlVr-Ok2Yhl1AFvIKc/s320/_20160807_155713.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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Some comparison shots with the Ribba frame shows just how much thinner this stick is.<br />
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I still have to chuck some paint on the case and install the hardware, but that's all still en route. You can see how this is a much sleeker stick, still with hidden screws, and using the included spring clips to attach the frames.<br />
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Stay tuned for <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/10/ikea-arcade-stick-v2-part-two.html">Part Two</a>!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7352420480869182464.post-18021739182911671192016-07-19T06:20:00.001-07:002016-07-19T06:20:52.763-07:00Fighting Frame - Finale!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<i>Continued from <a href="http://thinkcubits.blogspot.com.au/2016/07/fighting-frame-part-two.html" target="">part two</a>.</i><br />
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My new donor PCB's arrived care of eBay, and they're exactly as cheaply made as you'd expect of knockoffs. In comparison, the official CCP is a thing of beauty.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT665TnvISr0eveyufKfUJYQRhc8g8DDhrm4qVkExBxFB7GdL3hpTkgqQyZVbDJVZwiyk5T-gsGSqlctbL82F1ALhTrmgx5J2yysIO6Kx0ddzD2ShMBTyWg03D6XI3Q2KBFZBDJP8XoY/s1600/_20160719_215010.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUT665TnvISr0eveyufKfUJYQRhc8g8DDhrm4qVkExBxFB7GdL3hpTkgqQyZVbDJVZwiyk5T-gsGSqlctbL82F1ALhTrmgx5J2yysIO6Kx0ddzD2ShMBTyWg03D6XI3Q2KBFZBDJP8XoY/s320/_20160719_215010.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
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But you get what you pay for, and i'm not here for the casing.</div>
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Hey, i can actually work with this! I was dreading finding an unsolderable, cheap mess inside, but these points are ready to go. It's even easier to work with than the Nintendo boards (but not quite as good as the Hori).</div>
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I painted the lower case black, applied three layers of polyurethane clear coat, then finished the interior with a splash of white. As you can see, the PCB is mounted to the inside of the lid. The wiring may look a bit messy, but I've daisy-chained the grounds to simplify wherever I can.</div>
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Here the lid is down, I just have to install the acrylic sheet then plug the buttons in. The art would go on first, but mine is not nearly ready. That can go on later.<br />
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Shiny shiny. The screws are underneath the acrylic sheet, and will all be hidden by the art decal.<br />
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Outer frame is now in place to keep everything tied down. It's a simple pressure-fit, which makes removing the wiimote a breeze.<br />
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Ball top installed, and blammo, stick finished! All in all, it was only a couple of hours of actual work, a picture frame, and a sheet of cheap plywood.<br />
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Here's a comparison against my giganto Lucario stick. It's a shade thicker, but way, way quicker to build!Cubitshttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17912454755424594855noreply@blogger.com1